Maryam Toscanello Waxed Reverse Horsebutt

The Toscanello leather designation derives from Italian Toscanello cigars, which are manufactured in Tuscany using fermented Kentucky tobacco. These cigars were originally created to satisfy the popular Italian custom of smoking Toscano cigars cut in half, with Toscanello representing pre-cut halves ready for consumption. The leather's medium brown tone with matte finish mirrors the natural tobacco coloration of these traditional cigars, reflecting the shared Italian heritage between the tannery and cigar manufacturing traditions.

This naming convention represents a cultural crossover where Italian leather artisans at Maryam tannery chose to honor the regional cigar tradition by creating a leather finish that captures the same rustic, medium brown character. The connection extends beyond color to encompass the artisanal nature of both products, with each representing traditional Italian craftsmanship passed down through generations.

Toscanello Waxed Reverse Horsebutt exhibits exceptional physical characteristics derived from the dense, fibrous structure of horse hide. As a heavyweight vegetable-tanned leather sourced from small artisanal tanneries in central Italy, it maintains the superior durability associated with horse butt leather while offering unique aesthetic and tactile qualities through its specialized processing.

The leather is full grain with incredible denseness and a rich feel, often containing small areas of actual shell cordovan within the hide structure. The reverse construction showcases the flesh side of the leather as the exterior surface, creating a distinctive roughout appearance enhanced by wax treatment. This processing method results in smooth grain characteristics with rustic elements, providing both visual interest and practical benefits.

The vegetable tanning process utilizes natural tannins combined with traditional methods, creating leather that maintains its instinctual tendency to darken over time. The slightly unfinished quality of the Toscanello finish allows for faster and more significant patina development compared to heavily processed leather types, making each piece unique in its aging characteristics.

Toscanello horsebutt is available in two primary finishing variations, each offering distinct characteristics for different applications. The TPR (thermoplastic resin) version utilizes an innovative tannage process where extra thick skins receive a special thermoplastic resin lamination to the surface. This treatment results in an all-conditions leather with an elegant shine similar to shell cordovan, providing enhanced weather resistance and a more refined appearance.

The TPR coating creates a protective barrier that helps maintain the leather's integrity under challenging conditions while preserving the underlying characteristics of the horse hide. The Maryam TPR Toscanello Horsebutt breaks in and softens beautifully, developing coveted rolls as the vamp bends and flexes during use. The large horsebutt grain structure remains visible across the toe and vamp areas, contributing to the distinctive aesthetic appeal.

The Vachetta variation represents an unfinished article that lacks the TPR coating, offering a wonderfully soft hand and exceptional responsiveness to brushing. This version breaks across the vamp with remarkable flexibility, developing character through use in ways that many consider almost magical. The uncoated surface allows for more direct interaction with environmental elements, accelerating the natural aging process and patina development.

The distinctive appearance of Toscanello Waxed Reverse Horsebutt stems from its medium brown tone combined with the unique textural qualities of reverse-finished horse hide. The matte finish with irregular texture creates visual depth and interest, while the flesh side presentation offers a suede-like appearance enhanced by wax treatment. This combination produces a rustic yet refined aesthetic that stands apart from conventional leather finishes.

The leather displays beautiful large horsebutt grain structure, particularly across high-stress areas like the toe and vamp of footwear applications. Natural characteristics include spider web veining, dark spots, and other markings that reflect the individual history of each hide. These features are preserved through the full aniline finish, ensuring that the authentic character of the horse hide remains visible and continues to develop through use.

The waxed treatment creates areas where oils and waxes eventually bloom to the surface, appearing as white residue that can be brushed off during maintenance. This blooming characteristic is considered a desirable feature that indicates the leather's natural response to environmental conditions and use patterns, contributing to the ongoing development of surface character and patina.

Toscanello Waxed Reverse Horsebutt demonstrates exceptional aging characteristics that set it apart from other premium leather types. As a full vegetable-tanned leather, its natural instinct is to darken over time, with each hide developing differently based on individual use patterns and environmental exposure. The slightly unfinished quality of the Toscanello finish accelerates this process, allowing for faster and more significant patina development than heavily processed alternatives.

The aging process transforms the initial medium brown tone into increasingly rich and complex colors. While each hide responds uniquely to wear and handling, the natural progression typically leads to an impossibly rich caramel color with a beautiful natural sheen. This transformation occurs gradually through regular use, with the leather responding to friction, oils from handling, and environmental exposure.

The development of patina in Toscanello leather creates brightly breaking creases and roll patterns that enhance rather than detract from the overall appearance. The leather's response to brushing contributes to this aging process, with regular maintenance helping to distribute oils and develop the characteristic sheen that makes aged Toscanello leather particularly prized among enthusiasts and collectors.

Toscanello Waxed Reverse Horsebutt has gained significant recognition among high-end bootmakers for its combination of aesthetic appeal, durability, and unique aging characteristics. The leather's compatibility with traditional construction methods, combined with its distinctive appearance, has made it a preferred choice for artisanal shoemakers creating premium, collectible footwear.

Viberg, the renowned Canadian bootmaker, has extensively utilized Toscanello horsebutt in various Service Boot configurations and special collaborations. The leather's performance in demanding footwear applications, combined with its distinctive appearance, has made it a favorite among the company's most discerning customers. Viberg's experience with the leather has demonstrated its suitability for both dress and work boot applications.

International bootmakers have also embraced Toscanello horsebutt for premium applications. Onderhoud, led by Indonesian craftsman Rizky, has achieved recognition for exceptional finishing and stitching quality comparable to legendary makers like Clinch and Role Club. The high demand for Onderhoud boots featuring Toscanello leather reflects the material's status among collectors and enthusiasts seeking the finest available craftsmanship.

Thursday Boots has incorporated Toscanello TPR leather into their Challenger boot line, making this premium material accessible to a broader market while maintaining the authentic Italian craftsmanship and heritage that defines the leather's character.

The dense, fibrous structure of Toscanello horsebutt makes it exceptionally well-suited for demanding footwear construction methods. The leather's ability to withstand the stresses of traditional handwelt and hand-stitchdown techniques while maintaining its distinctive appearance has contributed to its popularity among artisanal bootmakers who prioritize both construction quality and aesthetic appeal.

The material's compatibility with various sole attachments and finishing techniques allows bootmakers flexibility in creating diverse styles while maintaining consistency in leather performance. The natural strength of horse hide, combined with the specialized processing techniques used for Toscanello leather, creates a material that can support complex construction methods without compromising durability or appearance.

The leather's response to lasting and forming processes enables bootmakers to achieve precise fits and shapes while preserving the characteristic grain structure and surface texture that defines Toscanello leather. This workability, combined with the material's aging characteristics, ensures that finished boots continue to improve with use rather than deteriorating over time.

Proper care of Toscanello Waxed Reverse Horsebutt emphasizes techniques that support rather than interfere with the natural aging process that makes this leather particularly desirable. The leather's responsiveness to brushing makes regular brushing the most important maintenance practice, helping to distribute natural oils and develop the characteristic patina that enhances both appearance and durability.

The blooming characteristic of Toscanello leather, where oils and waxes appear as white residue on the surface, should be addressed through gentle brushing rather than aggressive cleaning methods. This natural phenomenon indicates healthy leather that is responding appropriately to environmental conditions and use patterns.

Periodic conditioning with appropriate leather care products can enhance the aging process, but over-conditioning should be avoided as it may interfere with the natural patina development that makes Toscanello leather particularly valuable. The leather's vegetable-tanned construction and natural oil content provide inherent protection, reducing the need for intensive maintenance routines.

The slightly unfinished quality that accelerates patina development also means the leather will respond more readily to environmental conditions, making proper storage important during periods of non-use. Well-ventilated storage helps maintain the leather's condition while allowing continued slow aging and character development.

Toscanello Waxed Reverse Horsebutt occupies a unique position in the premium leather market, combining the performance characteristics of traditional horse hide with distinctive aesthetic qualities that appeal to collectors and enthusiasts. The leather's association with high-end bootmakers and limited production quantities has contributed to its status as a sought-after material for luxury leather goods.

The cultural connection to Italian Toscanello cigars adds an element of heritage and storytelling that enhances the leather's appeal beyond its purely functional characteristics. This narrative dimension, combined with the material's exceptional aging properties, creates value that extends well beyond initial purchase price and continues to develop throughout the life of products made from this leather.

The leather's performance in premium footwear applications, combined with its distinctive aging characteristics, has established a strong secondary market for boots and other goods made from Toscanello horsebutt. This collectibility reflects both the material's inherent quality and the craftsmanship of the makers who choose to work with this specialized leather type.

Viberg. "Service Boot Toscanello Horsebutt". Viberg. Retrieved September 24, 2025.

RM Leather Supply. "Maryam - Horserump TPR - Veg Tanned Premium Horse Butt Leather (HIDES)". RM Leather Supply. Retrieved September 24, 2025.

BLKBRD Shoemaker. "MARYAM, Horserump TPR". BLKBRD Shoemaker. Retrieved September 24, 2025.

The Fedora Lounge. "Onderhoud Engineer in Maryam Toscanello Horsebutt 44D". The Fedora Lounge. Retrieved September 24, 2025.

Thursday Boots. "Men's Challenger Boot In Brown 'Toscanello' Leather". Thursday Boots. Retrieved September 24, 2025.

Division Road. "Viberg x DR Shelby Sharp Brogue Boot - Maryam Toscanello Vachetta Horsebutt". Division Road. Retrieved September 24, 2025.

Wikipedia. ["Toscano (cigar)"](<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toscano_(cigar)>). Wikipedia. Retrieved September 24, 2025.