Maryam

The tannery specializes in producing shell cordovan, horse leather, calf, kangaroo, and deer leather for heritage footwear makers. Maryam supplies leather to heritage bootmakers including Viberg, Nicks, and Benzein, with partnerships spanning over 20 years in some cases. The company combines centuries-old Tuscan tanning traditions with modern equipment while maintaining strict environmental standards and sustainability practices.

Maryam tannery operates in Santa Croce sull'Arno, located in Tuscany's traditional tanning region. The area has served as a center for leather production since the first tannery was established there in 1814, growing from four workshops to over 30 tanneries by 1900. The district now encompasses one of Europe's largest tanning concentrations, with over 250 tanneries employing approximately 10,000 people across 900 small and medium enterprises.

The facility operates with a team of approximately 10 people and partners with another local tannery for initial hide processing to create "blue skins" before completing the vegetable tanning process in-house. This collaborative approach reflects the interconnected nature of the Santa Croce tanning district.

Maryam employs traditional vegetable tanning methods that rely entirely on natural materials. The process uses tannins extracted from trees, along with oils and animal fats, to transform raw hides into finished leather. This approach represents a slow, careful transformation that the company describes as having "total respect for nature."

The tannery has undergone structural and logistical transformations over the years to develop more modern vegetable tanning systems while preserving traditional techniques. The process combines centuries-old experience with contemporary technologies and equipment, allowing for consistent quality while maintaining the artisanal character of the leather.

The company produces several specialized leather types for the heritage footwear market. Shell cordovan is produced with an average thickness of 1.8mm (4-5 oz) and features a semi-gloss finish with an aniline effect. Available colors include burgundy, tan, cognac, dark cognac/whisky, and black, with sizes typically ranging from 17-27 dm² (1.8-2.9 ft²).

Horsebutt leather specifications include 6oz (2.4mm) thickness with a tolerance of ±0.3mm, achieving a yield of 75% or higher. Typical sizes measure 18-20 square feet. The company offers multiple finishes including TPR (resin treatment for shell cordovan-like appearance) and Vacchetta (base vegetable tannage), with over 10 color options available including natural, toscanello, black, fire red, burgundy, tan, and various cognac shades.

Heritage bootmakers rely on Maryam leather for specialized boot construction. Established partnerships include Viberg, Nicks, and Benzein, who regularly feature Maryam leathers in their boot construction. A.McDonald Shoemakers has maintained a particularly longstanding relationship, with their partnership spanning 20 years.

These partnerships demonstrate the tannery's reputation within the heritage footwear community, where traditional vegetable-tanned leathers are frequently specified by heritage bootmakers for their aging characteristics and durability in high-quality boot construction.

Maryam sources exclusively from waste leathers generated by the food industry, utilizing hides that would otherwise create environmental impact or be discarded. This approach aligns with the company's commitment to reducing ecosystem impact while creating products that integrate with biological cycles.

All products meet European Union environmental regulations and are certified as 100% natural and vegetable-based. The tanning process preserves natural leather characteristics, including small wrinkles and veins that appeared on the animal's original skin, maintaining the authentic appearance of the finished leather.