Maryam Rovescio Sego Horsebutt

The term "Rovescio" refers to the reverse or roughout side of the leather, while "Sego" indicates the use of animal oils (tallow) applied during the vegetable tanning process. This combination creates a leather that retains the density and durability characteristics of horse butt while offering enhanced softness and a distinctive aesthetic appearance.

The Sego tannage was developed as a collaborative effort between Brett Viberg and Maryam tannery to address the need for a horsebutt leather that would be softer and better suited for stitchdown construction methods. The process incorporates a higher concentration of oils and waxes compared to standard vegetable tanning, which softens the leather and provides the surface with a clean, sleek sheen.

The Rovescio Sego finish involves working specifically on the "suede" or flesh side of the leather, where oils and talc are applied to create the distinctive texture. According to Maryam tannery documentation, the process uses animal oil (tallow) that is added during the vegetable tanning process using a special pressing method. This treatment results in a roughout leather that has a notably different feel from traditional roughout finishes.

The base tanning process follows Maryam's traditional vegetable tanning methods, which use natural tannins from trees combined with modern technologies. The entire manufacturing process, from raw leather to finished product, takes place exclusively at the Maryam facility in Italy.

Maryam Rovescio Sego Horsebutt exhibits several distinctive physical properties that differentiate it from other leather types. The leather displays a beautiful grain texture on the outside surface while featuring a distinctive striated texture on the flesh side. The material maintains the dense fibrous structure characteristic of horse butt leather, which lends itself well to durable applications.

The leather is classified as top-grade, full-grain vegetable-tanned horse rump with considerable denseness and a rich feel. Despite being a roughout finish, the oil and talc treatment results in a much smoother texture compared to standard roughout leathers. The high variability of the roughout portion means that no two pieces of leather will appear identical, with some exhibiting more pronounced texture than others.

Thickness specifications for horsebutt leather can reach up to three millimeters, providing substantial material for boot construction. The grain structure proves tougher than cowhide, offering greater abrasion resistance than cowhide while maintaining a smooth, heavy feel with a firm body that withstands regular wear.

Maryam tannery, established in the heart of the tanning district of Santa Croce sull'Arno in Tuscany, Italy, produces Rovescio Sego Horsebutt as part of its specialized leather offerings. The tannery was founded as a completely vegetable-tanning operation and continues to uphold centuries-old experience and knowledge in leather processing.

The facility operates under strict quality standards, processing only waste leathers from the food industry to ensure sustainable practices. All leathers produced are of Italian origin, with the complete manufacturing process from raw leather to finished product conducted entirely within the tannery. The process emphasizes the use of natural tannins from trees, modern technologies, and the slow passage of time necessary for proper leather development.

Maryam tannery's approach combines traditional Tuscan leather-making techniques with contemporary methods to maintain consistent quality while preserving the artisanal character of their products.

The properties of Maryam Rovescio Sego Horsebutt make it particularly suitable for high-end footwear and leather goods applications. The dense fibrous structure and notable durability characteristics make it an ideal choice for boots, shoes, wallets, belts, watch straps, and other small leather goods that require long-lasting performance.

Horse leather's reputation for toughness, resistance, and durability stems from its high tensile strength and extremely abrasion-resistant qualities, attributed to its dense and firm fiber structure. These characteristics, combined with the softening effects of the Sego treatment, create a material that balances durability with workability for manufacturers.

The leather's smooth, heavy feel and firm body that holds up to wear makes it particularly valued for applications where both aesthetic appeal and functional performance are required. The distinctive striated texture on the flesh side provides visual interest while the grain side maintains the structural integrity necessary for demanding applications.