Maryam Toscanello Horsebutt Overdyed Walnut

The foundation of this exclusive leather begins with Maryam's Toscanello horsebutt, a vegetable-tanned leather named after the traditional Toscanello cigars of Tuscany. Before the walnut overdyeing process, the leather displays the characteristic reddish-brown tones of Toscanello with a light milk chocolate appearance and matte finish typical of vachetta tanning methods.

The base leather features the premium qualities associated with Maryam's horsebutt production: dense grain structure, firm yet supple texture, and the occasional presence of shell cordovan areas within individual hides. These characteristics provide an ideal foundation for the specialized overdyeing process that follows.

The defining characteristic of this exclusive leather lies in its walnut overdyeing process, developed by Unsung House using homemade walnut dye. Walnut shells have been historically recognized as effective natural dyes for leather coloration, offering eco-friendly, renewable, and biodegradable properties compared to synthetic alternatives.

The walnut overdyeing process transforms the original Toscanello color into deeper, more complex tones. Natural walnut dyes historically produce rich brown colors that respond well to iron mordanting, creating grey-brown variations. This overdyeing technique adds layers of color depth while preserving the leather's natural grain structure and aging characteristics.

The homemade nature of Unsung House's walnut dye process ensures each batch possesses unique characteristics, contributing to the exclusivity and artisanal quality of the finished leather.

Following the walnut overdyeing process, the leather displays significantly deeper and more complex coloration than the base Toscanello. The original reddish-brown tones become enriched with the warm, earthy characteristics of natural walnut dye, creating a sophisticated color profile that bridges traditional brown tones with subtle grey undertones.

The surface maintains the irregular texture and dense grain structure characteristic of premium horsebutt while exhibiting the enhanced depth achieved through the overdyeing process. Natural variation between hides remains a defining feature, with the walnut dye interacting uniquely with each hide's individual characteristics.

This leather represents a carefully curated collaboration between two artisanal operations known for their commitment to premium materials and traditional craftsmanship. Unsung House, based in Nashville, has established a reputation for creating WWI-inspired boot patterns using exceptional leathers, while Conceria Maryam continues the centuries-old Tuscan tradition of vegetable tanning.

The exclusivity of this leather to Unsung House reflects the boutique nature of both operations and their shared commitment to small-batch, high-quality production methods. This partnership ensures that the walnut-overdyed Toscanello horsebutt remains a distinctive offering within the premium footwear market.

The combination of base Toscanello horsebutt characteristics with walnut overdyeing creates exceptional aging potential. The vegetable-tanned foundation provides the natural responsiveness to environmental factors that characterizes premium vachetta leather, while the walnut overdye adds additional complexity to the patina development process.

As the leather ages, the walnut dye continues to interact with natural oils, sunlight exposure, and wear patterns, creating increasingly rich and varied coloration. The natural mordanting properties of walnut dye ensure that the color remains stable while allowing for the subtle evolution that defines quality leather patina.

Areas of frequent wear and flexing develop the characteristic rolls and creases associated with horsebutt, while the walnut overdye enhances the natural luster that emerges through use, creating pieces that become more distinctive and beautiful with age.

Unsung - Maryam Toscanello Horsebutt Overdyed Walnut appears primarily in Unsung House's Slog Boot, a 6-inch WWI-inspired pattern constructed on oak-bark tanned outsoles with Vibram half-soles and Dr. Sole heels. The hand-welted construction method complements the artisanal nature of the leather itself.

Due to the exclusive nature of this collaboration and the small-batch production methods of both Unsung House and Conceria Maryam, availability remains limited to specific releases and custom orders through Unsung House's Nashville location or select trunk shows and maker's markets.

The leather's combination of historical Italian tanning traditions, innovative American overdyeing techniques, and artisanal construction methods positions it as a premium option for collectors and enthusiasts seeking unique, limited-availability footwear materials.