LVL01 Captoe Brogue

The boot features classic captoe brogue construction with perforated leather detailing and decorative medallions, following design traditions that trace back to early 16th century Scotland and Ireland. Onderhoud produces the LVL01 using entirely handcrafted methods, with each pair taking several weeks to complete as part of the company's small-batch production approach that yields only 2-3 pairs per week across all models.

Built in Indonesia's historic footwear manufacturing center of Bandung, the LVL01 exemplifies the country's position as one of the top five global footwear producers. The model is available through Onderhoud's specialized ordering system with pricing ranging from $240 to $750 depending on leather selections and customizations.

The LVL01 Captoe Brogue employs traditional hand-welted construction methods that follow techniques established by Charles Goodyear in 1869. Each boot features a stitched toe cap with perforated and serrated edges, along with additional decorative perforations called medallions that characterize the brogue style.

The construction process involves hand-lasting, hand-welting, and hand-stitching of both the welt and midsole attachments. Onderhoud's craftsmen deliberately angle the stitches to emphasize the handmade nature of the construction, with visible diagonal stitching patterns that showcase human craftsmanship rather than machine precision.

Traditional brogue features include:

The original functional purpose of brogue perforations was to allow the upper leather to dry more quickly in wet climates, though in the LVL01 these details serve primarily decorative purposes while maintaining the historical aesthetic of traditional brogues.

Onderhoud offers the LVL01 Captoe Brogue in various premium leather options, reflecting the company's evolution from local Indonesian tanneries to international premium suppliers. Current material preferences emphasize thick, vegetable-tanned leathers that develop character through wear.

Standard leather options include Indonesian-sourced combination tanned pull-up leathers, while premium upgrades feature Italian vegetable tanned leather from Badalassi Carlo in their Minerva line. The most exclusive models utilize Badalassi Carlo Oliva leather in overdyed finishes, which provide exceptional depth of color and aging characteristics.

For customers seeking maximum durability and heritage appeal, Onderhoud sources natural horsebutt leather from Italy's Maryam Tannery, along with Horween Leather Company's natural Chromexcel for models requiring American-sourced materials. These premium leather options typically add $200-300 to the base price but offer superior longevity and patina development.

Each LVL01 Captoe Brogue is entirely handcrafted by skilled artisans in Onderhoud's Bandung workshop, continuing Indonesia's shoemaking traditions that date back to the 1910s-1920s during the Dutch colonial period. The production process emphasizes traditional techniques over mechanical efficiency, with founder Rizky Afnan personally overseeing quality standards.

The limited production capacity of 2-3 pairs per week across all Onderhoud models means LVL01 orders typically require 3-4 months for completion. This extended timeline reflects the meticulous hand-welted construction process and the company's commitment to training apprentice bootmakers in comprehensive craftsmanship skills.

Onderhoud's workshop operates within Bandung's broader footwear manufacturing ecosystem, which historically centered around the Cibaduyut area known as the longest shoes crafting street in Asia until 1970. The region's expertise in handwelting techniques provides a foundation for Onderhoud's specialized formal footwear production.

The LVL01 Captoe Brogue is available exclusively through Onderhoud's Instagram-based ordering system (@onderhoud.handmade), where founder Rizky Afnan personally manages customer communications. Due to high demand and limited production capacity, Onderhoud operates a lottery system for order acceptance, opening periodically for new customers.

Base pricing for the LVL01 starts at approximately $240-280 for standard leather options, with premium Italian leather upgrades increasing costs to $350-400. The most exclusive shell cordovan versions reach $750, positioning the boot competitively within the handmade footwear market while maintaining accessibility compared to European or American handmade alternatives.

Customers must provide detailed measurements and specifications during the ordering process, as each pair is made-to-order with customization options for leather selection, construction details, and finishing preferences. The extended lead time and lottery-based availability have contributed to the model's reputation among international heritage footwear enthusiasts.