The Onderhoud LVL01 Derby Boot represents a unique fusion of traditional derby construction with the handcrafted excellence that has made Onderhoud Handmade one of the most sought-after Indonesian bootmakers. This model showcases the brand's signature hand-welted construction in a refined derby silhouette, offering the versatility of dress shoe styling with the durability and character of a heritage boot.
Crafted entirely by hand in Rizky Afnan's workshop in Bandung, Indonesia, the LVL01 Derby Boot embodies Onderhoud's philosophy of preserving traditional bootmaking techniques while creating accessible luxury footwear. Each pair requires weeks of meticulous handwork, with only 2-3 pairs produced weekly across the entire Onderhoud workshop.
The LVL01 features classic derby construction with open lacing, providing a more relaxed fit around the instep compared to oxford-style closed lacing. This design choice makes the boot particularly suitable for those with higher insteps or wider feet, while maintaining the refined appearance expected from quality dress footwear.
The boot's height typically extends to mid-ankle, creating a versatile silhouette that bridges formal and casual wear. The derby lacing system allows for easy adjustment and accommodation of different foot shapes, making this model particularly popular among customers seeking both comfort and style.
Like all Onderhoud boots, the LVL01 employs traditional hand-welted construction throughout. The process begins with hand-lasting the upper to the last, followed by hand-cutting and attaching a leather welt around the perimeter of the sole.
The characteristic stitching features deliberately angled hand-stitches that emphasize the artisanal nature of construction. This intentional variation from machine precision showcases the human craftsmanship behind each pair and adds to the boot's distinctive character.
The LVL01 Derby Boot offers various sole configurations to suit different preferences and intended uses:
Leather soles with beveled edges for formal wear
Dr. Sole half-soles in black for added grip and durability
Vibram full soles for maximum traction and longevity
Combination leather and rubber configurations
Customers can specify heel height preferences, with options ranging from low dress shoe heels to slightly higher work boot profiles depending on the intended aesthetic and functional requirements.
The LVL01 Derby Boot is available in Onderhoud's full range of leather offerings, from entry-level Indonesian pull-up leathers to premium international hides:
Entry-Level Options ($240-$280):
Indonesian combination-tanned pull-up leathers
Local vegetable-tanned options in various colors
Suitable for customers seeking exceptional value
Premium Upgrades ($350-$400):
Badalassi Carlo Minerva vegetable-tanned leather from Italy
Maryam Tannery horsebutt leather
Wickett & Craig harness leather from Pennsylvania
Luxury Options (up to $750):
Horween shell cordovan in various colors
Natural Chromexcel horsehide
Limited edition and seasonal leather offerings
Onderhoud's made-to-measure approach allows extensive customization of the LVL01 Derby Boot:
Last selection based on foot measurements and preferred fit
Toe box structure from unstructured to fully structured
Lining options including full leather lining or minimal lining
Hardware specifications such as eyelet vs. speed hook configurations
Stitching thread colors to complement or contrast with leather choice
Each LVL01 Derby Boot is constructed using detailed foot measurements provided by the customer. Rizky Afnan works directly with customers through Instagram to ensure proper fit, requesting specific measurements including:
Length and width measurements for both feet
Arch height and instep measurements
Any specific fit concerns or preferences
Photos of feet from various angles when necessary
This personalized approach results in boots that fit significantly better than standard retail sizing, with many customers reporting the LVL01 as among the most comfortable footwear they own.
Due to the made-to-measure construction and quality leather materials, LVL01 Derby Boots typically require minimal break-in compared to off-the-shelf footwear. Most customers report comfortable wear from the first day, with the leather gradually molding to the foot over the first few weeks of wear.
The vegetable-tanned leather options may require slightly longer break-in periods but reward patience with superior aging characteristics and patina development over time.
Acquiring a pair of LVL01 Derby Boots requires patience and timing due to Onderhoud's small-scale production and high demand. The ordering process begins by following @onderhoud.handmade on Instagram and waiting for order books to open.
Rizky Afnan personally manages all customer communications, using a lottery system to fairly distribute limited production slots among interested customers. This approach has become part of the Onderhoud mystique, with many customers developing relationships with the maker over time.
Current production timelines for the LVL01 Derby Boot range from 4-6 months from order confirmation to completion. This extended timeline reflects several factors:
Complete hand construction of each pair
Limited workshop capacity (2-3 pairs total per week)
Meticulous attention to detail and quality control
Made-to-measure fitting process
The LVL01 Derby Boot represents exceptional value in the handmade footwear market, with pricing determined by leather selection and customization level:
Base models: $240-$280 in Indonesian leathers
Premium leather upgrades: $350-$400
Shell cordovan options: Up to $750
International shipping: Additional $40-$60
New LVL01 Derby Boots benefit from an initial conditioning with high-quality leather conditioner, particularly for vegetable-tanned leather options. Onderhoud provides basic care instructions with each pair, emphasizing the importance of allowing leather to breathe between wears.
The hand-welted construction enables full resoling when needed, making the LVL01 Derby Boot a buy-it-for-life investment. Regular maintenance includes:
Conditioning every 3-6 months depending on wear frequency
Using cedar shoe trees to maintain shape
Rotating wear to allow leather to rest and dry
Professional resoling every 2-5 years depending on use
The LVL01 Derby Boot excels at developing character through wear, particularly in vegetable-tanned leathers. The combination of quality materials and hand construction creates footwear that improves with age, developing unique patina patterns that reflect the wearer's lifestyle and habits.
LVL01 Derby Boot owners consistently praise the combination of construction quality, fit, and value. Common positive feedback includes:
Exceptional comfort from the made-to-measure construction
Superior build quality compared to similarly priced alternatives
Responsive customer service and communication during the order process
Unique styling that stands out from mass-produced footwear
Footwear enthusiasts and professional reviewers have recognized the LVL01 Derby Boot as exemplifying the best of Indonesian craftsmanship. The model demonstrates that exceptional handmade footwear can emerge from any location with sufficient skill and dedication to traditional techniques.
The Onderhoud LVL01 Derby Boot represents the democratization of luxury footwear, offering handcrafted construction and made-to-measure fit at accessible price points. Through Rizky Afnan's commitment to traditional techniques and apprenticeship programs, each pair carries forward centuries of bootmaking heritage while serving modern style and comfort needs.
For customers willing to wait for production and engage with the personal ordering process, the LVL01 Derby Boot offers an opportunity to own truly exceptional handmade footwear that will improve with age and serve for decades with proper care. The model stands as testament to Onderhoud's mission of preserving traditional craftsmanship while making luxury accessible to passionate footwear enthusiasts worldwide.
"Onderhoud Handmade - Official Instagram". Instagram. Retrieved September 17, 2025.
"Horween Leather Company - Official Website". Horween Leather Company. Retrieved September 17, 2025.
"Wickett & Craig Leather - Official Website". Wickett & Craig. Retrieved September 17, 2025.
"Badalassi Carlo - Official Website". Badalassi Carlo. Retrieved September 17, 2025.