Beefroll Penny Loafers

The beefroll design derives its name from the distinctive roll of leather around the edge of the shoe's vamp, where shoemakers stitch together two pieces of leather to create a roll that resembles beef roast wrapped in twine. This construction detail marks the loafer as "a true hand-sewer's penny loafer" and represents Rancourt & Co.'s homage to traditional shoemaking methods. The model is available in multiple leather options and sole configurations, with pricing ranging from $328 to $338 USD depending on sole selection.

The Beefroll Penny Loafers emerged from Rancourt & Co.'s deep roots in Maine shoemaking tradition. The company's story began in the early 1950s when David Rancourt left Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada to learn shoemaking in Lewiston, Maine. By 1967, he had established his own factory producing handmade moccasins, laying the foundation for what would become the company's signature construction methods.

In 1970, David's son Michael joined the business, helping grow the operation from a small moccasin shop into a fully developed shoe factory producing luxury calfskin loafers for major brands. The genuine handsewn moccasin construction that defines the Beefroll Penny Loafers has been recognized worldwide as uniquely American, representing a shoemaking tradition maintained across three generations of the Rancourt family.

The beefroll detail itself represents a distinctive feature of made-in-Maine penny loafers, serving as both a construction necessity and aesthetic element. This rolled edge demonstrates the company's commitment to traditional hand-sewing techniques, where skilled craftspeople use overcast stitching (also known as whipstitching) to attach the saddle to the shoe without relying solely on machine stitching.

The Beefroll Penny Loafers employ genuine handsewn moccasin construction, a technique that creates what is essentially an upside-down shoe. The construction begins with a single piece of leather for the bottom, which is pulled up on the sides and stitched to an upper piece to create the toe box. This method ensures the shoe's interior has practically no seams or stitches on the sides or sole where the foot rests.

The construction process eliminates the need for a leather lining, allowing the loafers to mold directly to the wearer's feet as body heat warms the leather. This creates a personalized fit that improves with wear, as the unlined construction allows the leather to stretch and conform to individual foot shapes. The company maintains traditional hand-fitting of leather to the shoe form (called a last) using techniques preserved for generations.

The distinctive beefroll edge results from hand-stitching the saddle (the strap across the vamp) using traditional methods. Rather than relying entirely on machine stitching, craftspeople create the rolled edge through careful hand-sewing techniques that both secure the saddle and create the characteristic aesthetic detail. This approach requires skilled workers who understand how to shape and fit leather using simple, traditional tools.

The Beefroll Penny Loafers are offered in multiple leather options, each impregnated with proprietary blends of natural oils and waxes. Heritage Brown leather provides a rich, traditional appearance, while Natural pull-up leather offers a lighter, more casual aesthetic. Additional options include Color 8 and Black pull-up leather, each sharing similar performance characteristics.

All leather options feature what the company describes as a "self-polishing" property, where regular wear naturally maintains the leather's appearance. Over time, the oils and waxes in the leather migrate to the surface, creating a light white film called "bloom." This natural process is easily addressed by buffing with a horsehair brush or soft cloth, which restores the leather's beautiful finish.

The loafers utilize Rancourt & Co.'s most traditional handsewn moccasin last, featuring a classic round toe shape that is slightly narrower than other models to provide a tailored fit appropriate for loafers. The construction incorporates a half-length sockliner while leaving the rest unlined, with Blake stitching at the front exposed to maintain the authentic moccasin aesthetic.

Standard Beefroll Penny Loafers feature natural leather midsoles paired with watertight oiled leather outsoles, providing traditional appearance and moderate durability. The company added double leather soles to address concerns about sole wear, ensuring customers don't need to worry about burning through the soles too quickly during regular use.

The LH (Lactae Hevea) variant features Reltex Lactae Hevea crepe soles made from 100% natural latex. These soles are marketed as "unrivaled in comfort and durability," offering enhanced cushioning and grip compared to traditional leather soles. Customer feedback consistently highlights the superior comfort of the Lactae Hevea sole option.

Current pricing reflects the construction quality and materials: standard leather sole models retail for $328 USD, while LH models with Lactae Hevea soles are priced at $338 USD. Shell cordovan versions command premium pricing at $728 USD, reflecting the exceptional material cost and specialized construction required for this luxury leather option.

The Beefroll Penny Loafers tend to run larger than Rancourt & Co.'s other shoe models, particularly in unlined leather versions. The company recommends these fit snugly at first purchase, as the leather will stretch and conform to the wearer's feet over time. The official sizing recommendation suggests ordering a half-size down from normal shoe size to accommodate this stretching.

The unlined construction contributes to the sizing considerations, as there are no internal materials to restrict the leather's natural stretching properties. As feet warm the leather during wear, the material literally molds to individual foot shapes, creating a custom-like fit that improves with regular use. This characteristic makes initial proper sizing crucial for long-term comfort and appearance.

The traditional moccasin construction places the foot directly in contact with the leather upper, enhancing the molding effect but requiring careful attention to initial fit. The half-length sockliner provides some cushioning at the heel while maintaining the direct leather contact that enables the characteristic fit development of handsewn moccasins.