Eastport Penny Loafer

Built using handsewn moccasin construction techniques passed down through three generations of Maine craftspeople, the Eastport featured pinch-style construction where the saddle was draped over the moccasin stitch to create a streamlined appearance. The model incorporated the titular penny slot on the saddle, distinguishing it from beefroll-style loafers where the sash is rolled and stitched.

The Eastport Penny Loafer employed genuine moccasin construction using a single piece of leather bottom that was pulled up the sides and stitched to the upper. This traditional handsewn method featured the vamp wrapping underneath the last and stitching through the footbed to a leather midsole. The construction utilized Blake stitching rather than Goodyear welting, though the shoe remained resoleable.

The design featured a double leather outsole construction with a leather-lined insole that included arch support and Rancourt branding. Hand-stitching with needles and waxed thread created the characteristic flexibility and comfort associated with traditional moccasin construction. Maine craftspeople used simple tools to shape and fit the leather to the last, maintaining traditional techniques while ensuring modern comfort standards.

Rancourt constructed the Eastport using premium materials, notably Horween's Tan Bulldog leather for the upper. This thick leather featured a lightly snuffed surface similar to nubuck, with hand-burnished finishing that created attractive appearance and enhanced patina development over time. The all-leather construction emphasized durability while maintaining the traditional aesthetic of handsewn American footwear.

The unlined construction provided increased breathability, making the shoe particularly suitable for sockless wear during warmer months. This design choice aligned with the traditional penny loafer's role as versatile casual footwear, suitable for various informal settings from campus to casual business environments.

The penny loafer style traces its origins to Norwegian fishermen's footwear called "teser," worn by fishermen in Aurland village. Norwegian Nils Tveranger studied shoemaking in Boston in 1891 and returned to create the Aurland moccasin, which combined elements of traditional teser with Native American moccasin construction techniques.

G.H. Bass adapted this Aurland design into the "Weejun" by 1936, featuring the distinctive cutout strap that became the penny loafer's signature element. The style evolved into a quintessential American sartorial staple, becoming ubiquitous on American school and college campuses from the 1940s through the late 1960s. Students wore them year-round with everything from shorts to tweed separates, establishing the penny loafer as an enduring symbol of American collegiate style.

Rancourt's production of the Eastport continued the handsewn moccasin tradition recognized as a cornerstone of American craftsmanship. The family-owned company maintained techniques developed over three generations, using traditional hand-fitting methods to shape leather to the last. This approach preserved the authentic construction methods that distinguished American handsewn footwear from mass-produced alternatives.

The Lewiston, Maine facility where the Eastport was crafted represents the continuation of New England's bootmaking heritage. Each pair underwent careful hand construction, with experienced craftspeople ensuring proper fit and finish through time-tested methods that prioritized both comfort and durability.

The transition from the Eastport to the current Pinch Penny Loafer represents Rancourt's refinement of the penny loafer design. The Pinch model maintains the core construction principles while incorporating a stitched midsole that eliminates the perpendicular box stitch of the original Eastport. This modification creates a cleaner aesthetic while preserving the traditional pinch-style saddle construction.

The penny nickname, derived from the decorative slot sized for a small coin and supposedly used for pay phone money, reflects the practical American approach to footwear design. The Eastport's place in this tradition demonstrates how contemporary makers like Rancourt continue to interpret classic American footwear styles while maintaining authentic construction methods.