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Natural Dublin, The heritage leather that could...

ShnyHntr912 months ago
Nicks Builder Pro, MTOHorween Natural Dublin
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Maker

Nicks

Model

Builder Pro, MTO

Leather

Horween Natural Dublin

Last

Thurman55 Last

US Men's Brannock: 10.5E

Thurman55 Last: 10E

None

The Thurman 55 last is exactly what i was looking for. I have some serious duck feet. ( Narrow in the heel with a really wide toe spread. ) The high arch from the 55 is a real back saver, and the Thurman toe allows my toes to roam where they naturally want to be. This is my last of choice from here on out.

Sole

Vibram 100 Montagna Lug Full Sole Honey

Heel

Classic, Dogger

Purchased from

Nicks Handmade Boots

More about this item

10 inch - Cut Top - Pull Loop - Brass Hooks and Eyes - Soft Toe - Beeswax Edge - Tan, Generation Laces.

Why I own this

Limited Release

I am a Journeyman Lineman by trade. I wanted to see the evolution of a vegetable tan boot such as Natural Dublin over the course of the dome. The Thurman 55 last works extremely well for my duck feet. Cut top on a 10 inch height has great ankle support and comfort in my line of work. The leather shank feels good and distributes my weight evenly while ascending, working, and descending wood poles when strapped into my climbing gaffs. I am excited to have this pair of Natty Dub beauties go through the challenge of the 24'-25' Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome.

How I sized

Thurman55 Last: 10EUS Men's Brannock: 10.5E
Brannock Measurements

I measured a half size down from brannock and came out with a 10.5 bumped down to a 10 Length. For width i measured with a taylors tape and cross referenced Nicks width sheet. I landed pretty firmly on an E width. The classic heel height and arch of the 55 last combined with the frontal toe space of the Thurman last is a godsend, that keeps me coming back to Nicks. This last works well for my duck feet. ( Wide forefront, more narrow heel )

Ordering process

Purchased from Nicks Handmade BootsTotal cost: 609 USD Lead time: About 2 months
Online Store

Nicks released 25 pairs of Natural Dublin over the summer in a MTO, Quickship. I ordered a pair when there were only 10 left. I recieved the pair about 2 months after ordering. The process was smooth as it could have been.

Use & wear

Physical Work
Outdoor Activities
Cold Temperatures
Hot Temperatures
Dry Climate
Humid Climate
Wet Conditions
Snow
Extreme Conditions
Travel

09/26/24 - Hurricane Helene made her devastating landfall in the South Eastern part of the U.S. dumping more than 40 trillion gallons of water upon the North Carolina, Tennessee border. Max sustained wind 140 mph. 10/05/24 - Hurricane Milton followed suit in St. Pete, Florida. Max sustained wind 180 mph. This pair of Natural Dublin, Builder Pro's were carried around from bucket truck to hotel room for six days before they were thrown into the carnage that was Hurricane Helene and Milton. These Builder Pro's started life off hard and fast, building powerlines across the country. From storm events such as the twin major hurricanes mentioned above, to lake effect snow and ice storms in Upstate New York. Climbing poles and digging holes to set new poles were frequent tasks throughout the restoration efforts. One thing to note was the hellish terrain this pair had to endure for the first three weeks of their life. From right of ways down in the Western North Carolina hollars, filled with huge, fallen pine trees in sea of unforgiving briars. To back yards in South Western Florida where they navigated through an obstacle course of cypress trees, which lay snapped between backyard properties. After returning home, they experienced primarily bucket work, which can be quite the abrasive environment for any pair of boots. Copper and aluminum wire scraps are cut and typically discarded into the bottom of the bucket. They can be extremely sharp objects that are residing with your boots for hours at a time. Temperature ranges were all over the map from high 90°F in Florida to single digits in New York. As for weather, we got to experience a little bit of everything, from down pouring rain and heavy snow to a month long dry and dusty drought. They handled all I and mother nature could throw at them...

Leather

Horween Natural Dublin
Care Routine
Break-In
Patina Process
Durability
Color Change

10 Inch foot yams... I was told that by the end of this competition, these would turn into 10 Inch foot yams, and boy, did these really metamorphisize into just that! The fossilization process starts off very light in color with a matte like . Once the wax coat on this veg tanned leather begins to warm up with heat, and friction, it starts to darken, burnish and shine. Break-in was relatively painless, surprisingly, as they were subjected to 16+ hour shifts on storm for their first 3 weeks of life. They only further became more comfortable throughout the six months. Care routine is as follows; brushed every day, wiped down as needed. Very light conditioning at the 3 month mark and a final conditioning at month 6. A gripe I could say about the Dublin is it seemingly has an endless amount of stretch to it sometimes. I prefer lacing up fairly snug, and at some point, I had to accept the level of snugness these allowed.

Fit

Thurman55 Last: 10EUS Men's Brannock: 10.5E
Comfort
Arch
Toe Box
Instep
Heel
Length Feels Right
Volume Feels Right
Ball Feels Right
Satisfied with the Fit

The fit and comfort in a Thurman 55 Last for my duck feet is unlike anything I have experienced so far. Hugging my heel and instep while allowing my toes to breathe has been a godsend. The arch support is as to be expected from the legendary PNW 55 last, and the overall wear experienced has been one to set the standard for all my builds to come.Darn Tough, over the calf Paul Bunyans are my go to socks and 4mm Buffalo Wool Company inserts were added in January to combat freezing temps.

Craftsmanship

Nicks Builder Pro, MTO
Construction
Finishing
Other
Durability
Stitching

The design of the Builder Pro is a classic, but the subtle changes I was able to add to this pair has really put them on top for me. The cut top allowed for calf comfort. And the dogger heel with a honey vibram outsole combination has allowed comfort while both standing and walking. Construction and finishing from Nicks is as to be expected. Subtle imperfections remind one that actual human hands were involved with building these works of art. I'll take the durability and quality of construction over a stitch out of place a fraction of an inch.

Sole & heel

Vibram 100 Montagna Lug Full Sole HoneyLess than a day, current sole
Durability
Traction
Comfort

The V 100 Honey Lug Outsole provides enough squish and durability for all day use. The softer compound allows more grip in colder temperatures.

Classic, DoggerWorn for less than a day, current heel
Comfort
Design

This has been my go-to walking heel for a while now, and they did not disappoint on this build.

Final thoughts

Would Recommend
Good Value

Natural Dublin, a heritage leather by day and a sleeper work leather by night. While a 7-8 oz. work leather could do a blue collar job a 5-6 oz. Heritage leather could do just as well and, subjectively, look even better during the process. This pair of boots has really changed my perspective on leather and how durable it can be regardless of weight or thickness. As long as Nicks keeps choosing to use the best quality materials and craftsmanship, I should have zero issues using heritage leathers for work in the future. Thank you, Nicks, for the quality products and thank you, Stitchdown, for the amazing competition. It has been an experience I won't soon forget. I'm already eagerly awaiting next October.

Written by ShnyHntr91
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