Premier Chukka

The Premier Chukka utilizes Russell Moccasin's proprietary Single Vamp moccasin construction, a method that takes significantly longer to complete than conventional welted or stitchdown construction techniques. This true moccasin construction begins with the selection of a last, a foot-shaped form made of wood or hard plastic that dictates the volume and shape of the boot's interior.

The construction process involves hand-cutting corresponding components including the vamp, molded sole, quarter, gusset, and toe piece from curated leather selections. After assembly using century-old Puritan stitching machines, the boot is soaked to soften the leather before being "pulled over" onto the last. The vamp forms a footbed that hugs the foot on all sides, creating what the company describes as a "hammock underneath your foot" that allows for natural foot flex and ground feel.

The Premier Chukka features Russell Moccasin's distinctive overlap seam, a technique patented by the company in 1941. This hand-sewn seam requires nearly two hours of labor per pair and takes three to four times longer to complete than other construction methods. The overlap stitch binds the entire boot together while creating a water and abrasion-resistant seam that serves both functional and aesthetic purposes.

The boot maker carefully trims the toe piece and vamp to create the signature overlap stitch, which remains a centerpiece of Russell's construction method. This seam not only provides the hallmark aesthetic of Russell moccasins but also serves as the integral stitch that holds the entire boot together.

Built on the 77 shoe last, the Premier Chukka achieves a sleek profile that makes it suitable for dressing up while maintaining the comfort characteristics of traditional moccasin construction. The 77 last creates a refined silhouette that distinguishes the Premier Chukka from bulkier work boot designs, enabling its versatility across different wearing occasions.

The Premier Chukka is constructed with boot-thickness leather to ensure long-term durability despite its lightweight design philosophy. The single vamp construction means one continuous piece of leather wraps around the foot from the bottom up, providing direct translation of foot movements through the sole to the ground.

The leather selection process emphasizes quality and appropriateness for the moccasin construction method, with materials chosen specifically for their ability to conform to the foot while maintaining structural integrity over extended wear periods.

The boot features an oak leather midsole specifically designed for resoling, supporting the company's philosophy of creating footwear that can be maintained and repaired rather than replaced. The outsole typically utilizes Vibram's 2060 cavity wedge, made from a soft gumlite compound that provides excellent comfort for walking and daily wear.

This sole configuration offers a level of comfort that Russell Moccasin considers difficult to match with other sole options in their arsenal. The combination of oak leather midsole and Vibram outsole creates a foundation designed to go the distance while providing the cushioning and traction needed for varied terrain and activities.

One of the Premier Chukka's standout features is its integrated backstay and pull tab on the heel of the boot. This design element combines an essential structural component with a convenience feature, reducing the number of sewing steps required during construction while increasing the strength of the pull tab itself. This innovation demonstrates Russell Moccasin's approach to functional design that serves multiple purposes simultaneously.

The handcrafted overlap seam provides both structure and water resistance to the Premier Chukka. While not constructed as a double vamp boot with an internal water-resistant leather sock, the overlap seam construction creates sufficient water resistance for most wearing conditions. The single vamp plus molded sole configuration adds side-to-side stability while maintaining the boot's water-resistant properties.

The Premier Chukka is designed to be comfortable and light enough for everyday wear while providing sufficient height to keep out dirt and sand. The boot slips on and off easily and laces quickly, supporting the design goal of reducing preparation time. Users describe the comfort as comparable to walking barefoot due to the moccasin construction's ability to allow natural foot movement.

Premier Chukka boots are produced specifically for each order through Russell Moccasin's made-to-order system, with lead times typically ranging from eight to sixteen weeks. The handcrafted nature of the construction means each pair receives individual attention from skilled craftspeople who have trained for years to acquire the specialized skills necessary for true moccasin construction.

The company's 30 employees, approximately 22 of whom work in production, focus on handmade craftsmanship rather than mass production. This approach supports the creation of what customers often consider heirloom pieces rather than disposable footwear.

Russell Moccasin offers both in-stock options and custom Premier Build configurations. The company has implemented a digital sizing program to improve fit accuracy, addressing the challenge of proper sizing for moccasin construction boots that fit differently from conventional footwear.

If a Premier Chukka fits too large or small upon delivery, customers can exchange it within 30 days in unworn condition for an adjusted size. The company will produce a replacement pair in the customer's choice of adjusted size, with exchanges limited to one per order and a production timeline of approximately eight weeks for the second pair.

Premier Builds, including the Premier Chukka, are positioned in the premium segment of the handcrafted boot market, with pricing reflecting the intensive labor and specialized construction methods involved. The made-to-order nature of Premier Builds means they are non-refundable, though the exchange policy provides some flexibility for sizing adjustments.

The customizable nature of Premier Builds allows customers to specify various options without additional charges beyond the base price, supporting Russell Moccasin's approach of creating personalized footwear that meets individual preferences and requirements.

Russell Moccasin Co. was founded in 1898 when William Russell purchased the Wright Shoe Company and used its equipment to establish the W.C. Russell Moccasin Company. The company's roots actually trace back to 1850, and it has operated from the same vine-covered facility on the banks of the Fox River in Berlin, Wisconsin, for over 124 years.

Originally, Russell boots were crafted for Wisconsin's booming logging industry, but outdoor enthusiasts quickly recognized the unique benefits of moccasin construction for hunting, fishing, and hiking activities. The company expanded under Bill Gustin's ownership beginning in 1928, developing the product line while maintaining the traditional construction methods.

The Premier Chukka's revival of 1960s patterns connects it to a rich heritage of notable customers and historical significance. Russell Moccasin has provided footwear for distinguished individuals including Charles Lindbergh, who wore Russell moccasins during his historic trans-Atlantic flight, and Presidents Bush. The brand has maintained its reputation through word of mouth and superior craftsmanship rather than extensive marketing campaigns.

This heritage extends across generations, with fathers regularly passing Russell boots to their sons and grandsons, treating the footwear as heirloom pieces. The company's emphasis on quality over marketing has created a loyal customer base that appreciates American manufacturing and traditional craftsmanship.

The Premier Chukka is specifically designed to handle a wide range of activities and environments. Its lightweight construction makes it suitable for extended wear, while the ankle height provides protection from dirt and debris during outdoor activities. The sleek profile created by the 77 last allows the boot to work appropriately in office settings or social occasions where a refined appearance is desired.

The boot's design philosophy centers on creating footwear that eliminates the need for multiple pairs of shoes for different activities. Users can wear the Premier Chukka for hiking, office work, casual social events, and outdoor recreation without compromising on comfort or appropriateness.

The boot-thickness leather construction and oak leather midsole designed for resoling support Russell Moccasin's philosophy of creating footwear that lasts decades rather than seasons. The ability to resole the boots extends their useful life significantly, making them an investment in long-term footwear rather than a consumable product.

The moccasin construction method, while labor-intensive to produce, creates boots that can withstand extensive use while maintaining their structural integrity and comfort characteristics. The premium materials and construction methods justify the higher initial cost through extended service life and the ability to repair rather than replace the footwear.

The Premier Chukka represents Russell Moccasin's approach to modern boot design while maintaining traditional construction methods. In an era of fast fashion and disposable footwear, the Premier Chukka offers an alternative philosophy focused on quality, repairability, and longevity.

The boot appeals to customers who appreciate American manufacturing and traditional craftsmanship while seeking versatile footwear suitable for contemporary lifestyles. The reduced weight and refined profile address modern preferences while preserving the functional advantages of moccasin construction.

Recent improvements to Russell Moccasin's production processes have reduced previously long wait times while maintaining quality standards. The implementation of digital sizing programs and streamlined ordering procedures has made the Premier Chukka more accessible to customers seeking high-quality, handcrafted footwear.

The company's position as potentially offering "the best built moc boot you can buy" reflects both the technical excellence of their construction methods and their ability to adapt traditional techniques to contemporary requirements and expectations.