Russell Moccasin Co.

Maker

About

Russell Moccasin Co. is an American custom boot and moccasin manufacturer founded in 1898 in Berlin, Wisconsin. The company operates from the same vine-covered facility on the banks of the Fox River where it has produced handcrafted footwear for over 124 years. Russell Moccasin is known for its proprietary Overlap Seam and Multi-Layer Moccasin Construction methods, producing 10,000-12,000 pairs annually with a workforce of 30 employees.

The company specializes in custom-made hunting boots, work boots, and moccasins built using traditional construction techniques that take three to four times longer than conventional methods. Russell Moccasin has maintained its reputation through customers including Charles Lindbergh, Harrison Ford, Presidents Eisenhower and George H.W. Bush, and General Norman Schwarzkopf.

History

Russell Moccasin was founded in 1898 when William Russell purchased the Wright Shoe Company from Stillman Wright. William Russell was a second-generation leather craftsman who worked alongside his brother Frank and father Charles. The company's roots can be traced back to 1850, establishing a foundation of traditional leather craftsmanship that continues today.

In 1926, W.C. Russell sold the company to the Bass brothers from Texas. The Bass family ownership was brief, as Bill Gustin managed the company for the Bass Brothers before purchasing it himself in 1928. The company later passed to the Fabricius family, who eventually handed ownership to Luke Kolbie and Joe Julian.

Throughout its history, Russell Moccasin has remained committed to its original location in Berlin, Wisconsin, operating from the same facility for more than 100 years.

Manufacturing and construction

Russell Moccasin operates from a single facility in Berlin, Wisconsin, employing approximately 30 workers with 22 dedicated to production. The company maintains an annual output of 10,000-12,000 pairs, ensuring detailed attention to each boot. All footwear is manufactured in Wisconsin, with only the soles sourced externally from Vibram.

Overlap Seam construction

Russell Moccasin developed and patented its Overlap Seam construction method in 1910. This proprietary technique provides water resistance and durability through a specialized seaming process that takes three to four times longer than conventional Stitchdown, Welted, or Maine Moccasin constructions.

Multi-Layer Moccasin construction

The company's Multi-Layer Moccasin construction involves wrapping a piece of leather around the foot like a hammock underneath. The leather vamp forms the insole, creating true moccasin construction where the uppers wrap around the entire foot. All leather components are hand-cut, hand-lasted, and hand-sewn. This construction method allows the removal of the leather midsole and Vibram outsole while leaving a fully functional boot.

These proprietary construction methods exist only at Russell Moccasin and have been passed from craftsman to craftsman for 127 years.

Custom manufacturing process

Every pair is custom-made to individual wearer specifications, with detailed records stored at the Berlin factory for future orders. The company emphasizes accurate measurements, offering customers the option to visit trade show exhibits, follow online measuring instructions, or travel to the factory in Wisconsin.

Premier and Classic Builds require two to three months for Single Vamp models, while Double and Triple Vamp models require three to four months to complete. Orders enter production immediately upon receipt.

Products

Materials

Russell Moccasin uses Bronze Chamois leather tanned at Horween Tannery in Chicago. This leather features a grain buffed to a matte velvet finish and treated with oils. The company also sources Bullhide leather from Seidel Tannery in Milwaukee, developed to be thick and tough enough to provide protection against snake bites. Custom boots are crafted entirely from Horween Chromexcel leather, with the Bullhide leather stuffed with wax and oil during the tanning process.

Signature boot models

The company's most recognized style is the Bird Shooter, a nine-inch hunting boot featuring Russell's Double Vamp Moccasin construction and Army Studs. The Bird Shooter was worn by Earl Shaffer during his historic 1948 Appalachian Trail thru-hike. For detailed specifications and construction details, see the dedicated Bird Shooter article.

The Professional Hunter model, developed for Safari clients in the 1960s and adapted from the Bird Shooter design, features lightweight cotton twill quarters and a low-drop sole for stalking. This ultra-lightweight design has been used on African and Australian hunting expeditions for over 40 years.

Customers

Russell Moccasin has served various customers throughout its history. Charles Lindbergh wore Russell moccasins when he emerged from the Spirit of St. Louis after his historic trans-Atlantic flight. Saxton Pope and Arthur Young, considered the fathers of modern archery, wore Russell moccasins as early as 1915.

Earl Shaffer, the first person to walk the entire Appalachian Trail in 1948, completed the journey from Georgia to Maine wearing Russell "Birdshooter" boots. Actor Harrison Ford has worn Russell Moccasin boots, including during his portrayal of Indiana Jones.

Presidential customers include Dwight D. Eisenhower and George H.W. Bush. Other customers include General Norman Schwarzkopf, the King of Nepal, and actor Robert Redford.