S.B. Foot Gold Russet Sequoia

The Gold Russet coloration serves as a tribute to Red Wing's heritage, recreating the golden-russet tones of the original mid-century leather while adhering to modern environmental practices. The color exhibits natural variation throughout individual hides due to the bark tanning process and develops a deeper golden patina through wear and aging.

The Gold Russet color designation traces its origins to the original Oro Russet leather used in Red Wing's Style No. 954 boot, introduced in 1950 and later known as the Irish Setter. The original Oro Russet leather underwent a six-month tanning process using bark tannins from Californian sequoia trees, producing distinctive lighter golden hues that gave the boots their characteristic appearance. The coloration so closely resembled the coat of Irish Setter hunting dogs that the boot received this name in the 1950 catalog.

Red Wing Heritage developed the Gold Russet color as a limited-edition recreation honoring this historical tanning heritage. The modern Gold Russet represents an effort to capture the aesthetic qualities of the 1950s leather through contemporary tanning methods. Unlike the original Oro Russet, which was a standard production color, Gold Russet Sequoia was released as a seasonal limited offering, making it available only during the Fall 2017 release period.

The color development involved resurrecting historical tanning knowledge and utilizing vintage equipment at Red Wing's Minnesota facility, with consultation from retired workers experienced in older tanning methods. This approach aimed to recreate the golden-russet tones characteristic of the mid-century leather while incorporating modern production standards.

Gold Russet exhibits a deep reddish-orange base color with golden undertones designed to emulate the lighter golden hues of the original Oro Russet leather. The color results from specific dye formulations applied during the drum tanning process, working in combination with tannins extracted from sequoia tree bark. This dual approach—dyeing combined with bark tanning—creates the distinctive golden-russet coloration that defines this leather variant.

The color penetration occurs during the soaking phase when prepared hides receive treatment in massive wooden drums. The dyes and tanning agents, including the sequoia bark extract, work to penetrate the leather fibers over an extended soaking period. This process ensures color consistency throughout the leather's thickness while allowing for natural variations that result from individual hide characteristics.

As an oil-tanned leather, Gold Russet Sequoia maintains natural breathability while offering moisture resistance. The oil content contributes to the leather's suppleness and helps prevent drying and cracking over time. High-contact areas gradually burnish, while the color evolves with exposure to light, oils from handling, and environmental conditions, developing deeper golden tones characteristic of well-aged oil-tanned leather.

S.B. Foot Tanning Company produces Gold Russet Sequoia using its traditional drum tanning processes developed over 150 years of operation. The manufacturing begins with prepared hides that undergo soaking in massive wooden drums measuring up to 40 feet in diameter. During this phase, hides receive treatment with tree oils, tanning agents including sequoia bark extract, and the specific dyes that create the Gold Russet coloration.

The complete tanning process requires two to five weeks with over 50 people involved in various production stages. The precise timing and material ratios during the drum soaking phase determine the final color characteristics. S.B. Foot's craftsmen must carefully control the dye application and soaking duration to achieve the golden-russet tones while maintaining the leather's structural properties.

Following the initial tanning and soaking, hides undergo rolling, drying, and stretching operations that prepare the leather for finishing. The limited-edition nature of Gold Russet Sequoia required special production runs utilizing historical tanning techniques alongside modern equipment. This production approach maintained the traditional methods that create the distinctive color while ensuring consistency across the limited release.

The manufacturing process for Gold Russet Sequoia represents a balance between recreating historical aesthetic qualities and meeting contemporary production standards. The resulting leather exhibits the color variations and aging characteristics typical of bark-tanned leathers while maintaining the durability and performance expected of modern oil-tanned footwear leather.

Red Wing Heritage incorporated Gold Russet Sequoia leather exclusively into two limited-edition Irish Setter boot models released in Fall 2017. The Model 9875 Irish Setter 6-inch Moc Toe boot features Gold Russet Sequoia leather throughout its upper construction. This style utilizes Goodyear Welt construction with a Traction Tred outsole, triple stitch detail, and leather laces, showcasing the distinctive golden-russet coloration in the classic moc toe silhouette.

The Model 9866 Irish Setter Pecos represents the second application of this leather. This 9-inch pull-on boot design draws inspiration from the original 1960s Red Wing Pecos style, featuring an all-around Goodyear Welt and Traction Tred outsole. The taller shaft height of the Pecos design provides additional surface area to display the Gold Russet coloration and its natural hide variations.

Both boot models were produced as limited editions, making them available only during the Fall 2017 seasonal release period. The limited production run and subsequent discontinuation have resulted in these boots no longer being available through regular Red Wing Heritage retail channels. The exclusive use of Gold Russet Sequoia in these two Irish Setter models reinforces the color's status as a tribute to Red Wing's heritage footwear designs.

Gold Russet Sequoia leather maintenance follows the care protocols established for oil-tanned leathers. Regular cleaning involves removing surface dirt with warm water and a brush, followed by drying with a cloth. For heavily-soiled areas, Foam Leather Cleaner can be applied with a cloth or brush, then wiped away with a damp cloth before allowing the leather to dry completely.

Conditioning maintains the leather's oil content and prevents excessive drying that could affect the color appearance. A light, even coat of All Natural Boot Oil, Mink Oil, or All Natural Leather Conditioner should be applied with fingers, cloth, or sponge when the leather shows signs of dryness. Red Wing's All Natural Leather Conditioner is specifically recommended for this leather type, though users should note that conditioning products may initially darken the leather before it returns to its natural tone.

For protection against dirt and moisture, Leather Protector spray can be lightly misted onto the footwear from six to eight inches away in sweeping motions. This protective treatment helps guard the leather surface without significantly altering the Gold Russet color or finish.

The natural aging process will continue despite proper care, with the color gradually developing deeper golden tones and burnished areas through regular wear. This color evolution represents a key characteristic of Gold Russet Sequoia, as the leather develops a patina that enhances the golden-russet coloration over time.