Seidel Chieftain Roughout

Chieftain Roughout combines light weight and flexibility with high durability, making it suitable for heritage footwear construction. The leather is produced using chrome tannage methods from full grain cow hides, with a tanning process that varies from eight to 24 hours depending on the specific requirements.

The manufacturing process begins with chrome-tanned cow hides at Seidel Tanning Corporation's facility located at 1306 E Meinecke Ave in Milwaukee. The tannery processes both full grain and suede leather types for footwear and leather goods industries.

The tanning process involves mixing vegetable extracts, dyes, fat liquors, and waxes in vats before pumping them into tanning drums. Oil tan leather is dyed with rich pigments throughout the hide for deep and lasting color. The leather is then finished with a light oil, producing a matte surface with a subtle sheen. Tanning duration ranges from eight to 24 hours depending on the leather specifications and desired characteristics.

Chieftain Roughout exhibits several distinctive properties that make it suitable for boot construction. The leather is light and flexible while maintaining high durability and water resistance. The saturation of oils during the drum tanning process, combined with finishing oils and waxes, produces a rich variety of colors and a distinctive pull-up effect where the leather lightens when flexed or bent, revealing depth and color variations.

The roughout variant features a flesh-out finish with a suede-like nap that develops additional character with wear. The grain side presents a nubuck-like matte finish, with both sides displaying tonal variations and striking natural characteristics. The oil-tanned construction provides a depth of color that develops into a unique wear pattern and rugged patina over time. The leather is designed to show noticeable scuffs and creases as it ages.

The leather is produced in multiple color options, with Aged Bark representing a prominent variant. Aged Bark features a deep rich orange-brown color with significant nap texture. The color is achieved through saturation with oils in the drum followed by finishing with additional oils and waxes.

Aged Bark roughout contains considerably more nap than standard suede and chamois roughout leathers. Out of the box, much of the nap remains dormant, but it emerges naturally through wear, particularly noticeable on heel areas. The flesh-out finish develops a distinctive patina as the boots are worn over time.

Chieftain Roughout is used primarily in heritage footwear construction by multiple bootmakers. Oak Street Bootmakers prominently features the leather in several models, including the Field Boot, Trench Oxford, Trench Chukka, Lakeshore Boot, and Cap-Toe Field Boot. Viberg also produces boots using this leather. The Oak Street Bootmakers Field Boot in Aged Bark Chieftain Roughout retails for $488.00, with construction featuring hand-lasted 360° Goodyear welt construction, a nine-iron leather midsole with Barbour flat welt, full calfskin lining, unstructured toe, antique brass eyelets, and Vibram Sahara 2060 sole. The boot incorporates a brown Horween Chromexcel tongue and is fully recraftable.

Seidel Tanning Corporation has maintained Leather Working Group certification since February 21, 2024, with the current certification expiring February 21, 2026. The facility's physical traceability accounts for 76.77 percent of materials. The tannery, founded in 1945 by Irwin Seidel, represents a fourth-generation family-owned business and remains the only Milwaukee tannery continuously operating since World War II. The company is particularly known for oil-tanned, pull-up, and waxed finishes across its product range.