Shinki Timber Oiled Horsebutt

Leather Color • exclusive for John Lofgren

About

Timber is a brown colorway of Shinki Oiled Horsebutt leather produced exclusively for John Lofgren Bootmaker. The leather features the characteristic dense grain and aging properties of Shinki horsebutt with a rich brown tone that develops patina through wear. John Lofgren applies this leather to multiple boot models including the Monkey Boots, Ludlow Boots, and Duke Roper Boots.

The Timber colorway maintains the full production specifications of Shinki Oiled Horsebutt, including the 10-month manufacturing cycle, mimosa bark tannage, and high oil content finishing. The leather exhibits minimal surface correction, preserving natural hide markings acquired during the horse's life.

Production Process

Tanning Timeline

Shinki Hikaku produces Timber horsebutt using their standard horsebutt manufacturing process. The complete production cycle requires 10 months from raw hide to finished leather. This timeline includes two months submerged in tanning pits and three to four months of natural drying.

The tanning process involves months-long bath in mimosa bark liquor imported from Australia. Following the tanning bath, hides undergo careful sorting and drying, then additional months-long curing to shrink and compress the skin fibers. During shrinkage, approximately 30% of the hide volume is lost.

Processing Methods

Shinki processes Timber horsebutt using methods similar to their Shell Cordovan production. The leather contains the shell portion of the hide but is classified as horsebutt due to the smaller overall size of the finished product.

The finishing process includes washing and cleaning of European horse hides, cutting to separate butt sections from hide fronts, extended tanning in Australian mimosa liquor, and finishing with milling, dying, oil application, and sanding.

Leather Characteristics

Physical Properties

Timber horsebutt initially feels thick and stiff but relaxes with wear. The leather molds to the foot shape during break-in while maintaining structural integrity. The dense fibrous composition provides durability while allowing flexibility for shaping and molding during boot construction.

Shinki applies minimal surface correction to Timber leather, allowing authentic marks acquired by the horse during its life to remain visible. These marks include bug bites, branch scratches, and natural grain variations that appear across different leather panels.

Grain Pattern

The leather exhibits a captivating grain pattern characteristic of horsebutt. Rather than creasing like cowhide, Timber horsebutt tends to roll, creating distinctive wear patterns. The grain features more character from initial use than many leathers develop through extended wear.

Natural variations in color, texture, and markings appear throughout the leather, making each boot pair unique. The grain structure remains tighter and more regular than cowhide while displaying the honeycomb wrinkle patterns typical of Shinki horsebutt.

Color Development

Initial Appearance

Timber presents as a rich brown tone with natural depth from the vegetable tanning process. The color exhibits warm undertones that complement the natural grain structure and surface characteristics of the horsebutt leather.

Patina Formation

The aniline finish applied to Timber horsebutt allows the leather to develop patina as it ages. High-wear areas darken and develop sheen while creases and flex points show accelerated color evolution. The oil content in the leather supports gradual patina development through regular use.

Construction Applications

Boot Models

John Lofgren manufactures multiple boot models using Timber horsebutt. The Monkey Boots (lot number LK-013) feature Goodyear welted construction with 6-inch shaft height, 1-3/8 inch stacked heel, USA-made Vibram 700 cork soles, Vibram 7335 cork heels, and Japanese-made steel shanks.

Ludlow Boots in Timber utilize Last 120 with E/Wide width fitting. Construction includes 1.5-inch stacked heel, 6-inch shaft, Goodyear welting, USA-made Vibram 430 soles, and Japanese steel shanks. All boots incorporate single, double, and triple stitching with embossed padded leather heel pads.

Manufacturing Standards

John Lofgren constructs all Timber horsebutt boots entirely in Japan using components manufactured exclusively in the USA, Japan, England, France, Germany, and Italy. The boots employ storm welts sourced from the USA and heavy stitching throughout the construction.

Sizing and Availability

Timber horsebutt boots are available in US sizes 6E through 12E in half-size increments. The E-width designation indicates a wide last appropriate for boots requiring break-in accommodation for the initially stiff horsebutt leather.

Monkey Boots in Timber retail for $1,155.00. Ludlow Boots in Timber retail for $1,055.00. Availability varies based on production schedules and leather allotments from Shinki Hikaku.

References

  • 1.

    "Monkey Boots / Shinki Hikaku Horsebutt Timber". John Lofgren Bootmaker. Retrieved October 11, 2025.

  • 2.

    "Shinki Hikaku Tannery". Viberg Journal. Retrieved October 11, 2025.

  • 3.

    "Ludlow Boots / Shinki Hikaku Horsebutt / Timber". John Lofgren Bootmaker. Retrieved October 11, 2025.

  • 4.

    "Shinki Tannery—The Best Leather for Horsehide Jackets". Himel Bros. Retrieved October 11, 2025.

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