8 Eye Derby Boot

The boot is constructed from seven pieces of leather and assembled through a multi-stage process combining hand craftsmanship with specialized machinery. Solovair manufactures the 8 Eye Derby Boot in multiple leather finishes, including hi-shine, greasy, matte, and waxy varieties, with options for steel toe safety versions and side-zip configurations.

The Solovair 8 Eye Derby Boot uses Goodyear welted construction, a traditional shoemaking method that attaches the upper to the sole through a welt strip. The construction process begins in the closing room, where pattern cutters assemble the boot's seven leather components. The two quarters are whipped together before the shell binding is attached using standard stitching plus an additional reinforcement row. The back panel and pull tag attach with traditional dual-row stitching, while the vamp and tongue are faced up with small leather pieces before 16 eyelets are inserted. A Puritan stitch, using three rows of thread, adds durability to the eyelet area.

In the making room, a specialist machine attaches the rib to the insole. The upper leather stretches and molds over the 409 last, creating the boot's shape before the insole attaches via the rib. The pre-stitched welt strip, featuring Solovair's grey stitch, applies to the upper using a chain stitch, then flattens on the underside. A felt mid-sole and beechwood shank insert between the insole and outsole, providing cushioning and structural support.

The outsole fuses to the flattened welt using a heat sealing machine with a hot blade rotating at approximately 700 degrees Celsius between the two components. This process requires precision and experience, as it is done by eye. After sole attachment, the last is removed and excess sole material is trimmed. Workers apply an adhesive-backed heel sock, clean and polish the boot, add laces, and prepare it for boxing and distribution.

The Solovair 8 Eye Derby Boot is built on the 409 last, which has a standard fit with a round and deep shaped toe. This last provides a generous toe box with room for natural foot movement. Solovair's Goodyear welted footwear tends to run slightly larger than most other brands. The company recommends either purchasing their cushioned socks with footwear in the wearer's regular size, as the socks provide about half a size of additional fitting, or ordering half a size smaller than typically worn. For a more precise fit with less room in the toe box area, wearers can go down half a size or fit according to foot length, adding 5 millimeters to the measurement for comfort.

The boot features Solovair's soft suspension sole, an air-cushioned design that provides comfort and support. This sole type represents the company's heritage as a pioneer in air-cushioned footwear technology. NPS, Solovair's parent company, developed the technology used in the original Dr. Martens boots in 1960, and the company continues to use the same lasts and manufacturing equipment that created the first Dr. Martens suspension soles in the United Kingdom. The soft suspension sole requires Goodyear welt technology to properly attach it to the boot upper, a technique NPS has used in all their shoe production.

Solovair produces the 8 Eye Derby Boot in multiple leather finishes. The Black Hi-Shine version features polished leather with a glossy appearance. The Black Greasy finish uses oil-tanned leather with a matte surface that develops character with wear. Black Greasy Grain offers a pebbled texture, while the Black Matte version provides a non-reflective surface. Additional color options include Oxblood, Navy Hi-Shine, and Dark Brown Waxy.

The company also manufactures safety versions with steel toe caps for industrial use, as well as side-zip variants that allow the boot to be worn without unlacing. A vegan version uses synthetic materials while maintaining the same construction method and last shape.