About
The Type I is a five-inch lace-up derby boot manufactured by Østmo Bootmaker. The boot shaft is designed as a separate panel, creating a distinctive look that has become synonymous with Østmo. The Type I features a unique element colloquially known as the "ankle swoopty," a curved design detail that has become characteristic of the pattern.
About
The Type I is a five-inch lace-up derby boot manufactured by Østmo Bootmaker. The boot shaft is designed as a separate panel, creating a distinctive look that has become synonymous with Østmo. The Type I features a unique element colloquially known as the "ankle swoopty," a curved design detail that has become characteristic of the pattern.
Construction method
The Type I employs a hybrid stitchdown and naildown construction approach. At the back half of the boot, the upper leather is pegged to the insole using brass clinching tacks that create hooks for secure fastening. The upper is then folded outward and fastened to a midsole with stitching. A second row of stitching attaches the upper, midsole, and outsole together. All midsole and outsole stitching is performed entirely by hand to achieve better tension control. This construction design allows for outsole replacement while preserving the midsole, extending the serviceable life of the boots. Production time for each pair is approximately 50 work hours.
Materials and components
The Type I is built around a 4.5 to 5mm vegetable-tanned leather insole sourced from the Spanish Splenda tannery. The heel stiffener is hand-cut from 3mm full-grain vegetable-tanned leather from the Swedish Tärnsjö tannery, a specification that has been standard since late 2023. The lining consists of supple aniline cowhide from the Swedish Elmo tannery. Both the shank and midsole are constructed from 4.5 to 5mm Splenda sole bends. As of 2024, the bottom filler uses vegetable-tanned leather. Toe puff options include unstructured with no toe puff, partially structured using 0.5mm adhesive-backed thermo-activated non-woven fabric, or fully structured using a 0.7mm variant of the same material. Outsole options include the Vibram Eton studded low-profile sole, Dr. Sole 1220 or 1230, or the Vibram 430 mini-lug sole. The boots use brass hardware, which resists oxidation and rot unlike standard steel hardware. Upper leather material options include calf hides, grain leather, vegetable-tanned roughout leathers, and Mongolian yak leather.
Pricing and availability
Original Østmo boots are priced at approximately €600. Lars Jensen operates exclusively through Instagram with no dedicated website. Jensen produces boots in self-selected sizes and materials, posts finished pairs on Instagram, and uses a random drawing system to select buyers from interested parties. Jensen is entirely self-taught, using books, YouTube, and his grandfather's tools.
References
"Buying tip - Østmo Boots". Shoegazing. August 18, 2019. Retrieved November 19, 2025.
"Construction and materials". Østmo Boots. Retrieved November 19, 2025.
