145 Oxford

Originally developed nearly two decades ago as an exclusive collaboration between Brett Viberg and Keizo Shimizu of Nepenthes for the Japanese market, the 145 Oxford has since gained an international cult following among heritage footwear enthusiasts. The model experienced a hiatus but returned in 2022, reinforcing its status as a sought-after style for collectors and everyday users alike.

The 145 Oxford is hand-crafted using stitchdown construction on Viberg's once Japan-exclusive 110 last, which provides a wide, voluminous fit with a rounded toe shape. Available in various premium leather options from renowned tanneries, the boot combines traditional construction methods with contemporary materials to serve heritage footwear buyers seeking durability and craftsmanship.

The 145 Oxford employs stitchdown construction, Viberg's primary construction method implemented in the 1970s and largely completed by hand. This construction uses heavyweight leather components, including a 5-5.5mm solid leather insole with solid leather heel and toe stiffener, creating a fully resoleable and recraftable boot designed to last 10-15 years with proper care.

Viberg offers the 145 Oxford in multiple premium leather options. Horween Leather Company materials include Chromexcel, Marine Field Shoe roughout leather, Cypress, and Latigo Waxed Flesh. The company also sources leather from Italy's Maryam Tannery, offering the model in Asfalto "Asphalt" Lucida Horsebutt and other horsebutt varieties. Chromepak leather versions utilize heavyweight, durable skins that produce distinctive pull-up characteristics unique to this tannage.

Sole options include the Vibram 2021 Evaflex Beige sole, Black Vibram Morflex sole, and Dr. Sole 1/2 sole, with a natural leather midsole providing additional structure and durability.

The 145 Oxford is constructed primarily on the 110 last, originally designed for the Japanese market 15 years ago. This true EEE width last features a very generous width throughout the ball and forefront, providing a wide round toe shoe last with a non-elongated, wider toe resembling a half-circle shape.

The boot features an open lacing system with a partially gusseted tongue, five antique brass eyelets, and an unstructured toe design. The natural edge finish and tonal stitching contribute to the boot's work-inspired aesthetic, while the branded leather insole adds company identification.

Construction details include double-row stitching on the vamp, following Viberg's established stitchdown methods. The hand-lasting process uses side lasting pliers, hammer, and solid brass tacks, with custom brass components made in Japan making Viberg the only global manufacturer using solid brass hardware.

Nearly two decades ago, Viberg introduced the 145 Oxford through a collaboration with Keizo Shimizu of Nepenthes, developing this low boot style exclusively for the Japanese market. About a decade and a half ago, when Viberg's popularity began growing in Japan, Brett Viberg and Nepenthes visionary Keizo Shimizu created the 145 as a simple but well-patterned shoe that functions as a derby rather than a true oxford.

The 110 last used for the 145 Oxford was originally created for the nascent Japanese market, reflecting the specific fit preferences and market demands of Japanese heritage footwear enthusiasts. This last represented Viberg's adaptation to international markets and their willingness to develop specialized products for different regional preferences.

In mid-2020, amidst Covid considerations and a new direction for the 92-year-old Canadian manufacturer, the 145 was declared shelved indefinitely. However, the model's return in 2022 was met with enthusiasm from the heritage footwear community, demonstrating the enduring appeal of this unique collaboration between Canadian craftsmanship and Japanese market insight.

The 145 Oxford utilizes the 110 last, which requires different sizing recommendations than Viberg's other lasts. Retailers typically recommend sizing one full size smaller than Brannock size for this last, though individual fit preferences may vary.

The 110 last provides a wide and voluminous fit with a rounded toe, accommodating feet that require additional width in the forefoot and ball area. As a true EEE width last, it offers more generous accommodation than many of Viberg's other lasts, making it suitable for those who find narrower lasts uncomfortable.

Available sizes typically range from 7.5 to 12 in US sizing, with the wide last design providing options for those requiring broader fit options in heritage footwear. The generous width throughout the ball and forefront distinguishes the 110 last from Viberg's more anatomically contoured options like the 2040 and 2045 lasts.