Wickett & Craig Burgundy Double Stuffed

Wickett & Craig also produces burgundy leather in their Traditional Harness line, which uses similar hot-stuffing methods but follows a different production process. Both burgundy options showcase the tannery's vegetable tanning expertise, developed since 1867.

The Double Stuffed leather undergoes a specialized finishing process where the material returns to stuffing drums a second time after initial tanning. During this second stuffing, heated natural waxes, tallows, and oils penetrate deep into the leather fibers. This double application creates improved stain resistance and enhanced pliability while developing the dramatic pull-up effect that distinguishes this leather type.

The hot-stuffing technique uses unrefined fats and oils that remain solid at room temperature. These materials are pounded into the leather through tumbling in heated barrels without water or chemical emulsifiers, allowing the oils and waxes to penetrate to the leather's core. This traditional process, dating back hundreds of years, produces leather that maintains a soft and supple texture throughout its lifespan.

Burgundy Double Stuffed leather develops a distinctive patina as it ages. The vegetable tanning process produces leather that responds to environmental exposure and use patterns. When exposed to direct sunlight, the burgundy color deepens and develops rich tonal variations. Areas of frequent contact, such as toe caps and heel counters on boots, burnish darker as natural oils from skin contact combine with the leather's inherent waxes.

The leather may develop bloom, a cloudy or hazy appearance that occurs as oils migrate to the surface. This bloom can be buffed away with a cloth or will wear off naturally through regular use. The pull-up effect becomes more pronounced with age, as folding or stretching the leather creates lighter-hued lines and color variations when the embedded waxes and oils shift within the fiber structure.

Wickett & Craig's Traditional Harness leather offers an alternative burgundy option for heritage footwear applications. This leather weighs between nine and 11 ounces and measures 3.6 to 4.4 millimeters thick. The full-grain, vegetable-tanned cow hide undergoes hot stuffing with an exclusive blend of waxes, oils, and tallows, then receives jack glazing to bring oils to the surface and create a glossy finish.

Traditional Harness burgundy is available in multiple weights, ranging from 2.5 to 3 ounces for lighter applications up to nine to 11 ounces for heavy-duty uses. When split to lower weights, this leather becomes suitable for wallets, small goods, footwear, bags, and briefcases. At heavier weights, it serves equestrian applications. The leather stamps and tools easily while maintaining a more marbled appearance compared to English Bridle leather.

Wickett & Craig was founded in 1867 and operates from a facility in Curwensville, Pennsylvania. The tannery represents one of only two specialty vegetable tanneries remaining in the United States. The company's slow vegetable tanning process utilizes natural tannins derived from tree bark and plant matter, yielding leather characterized by structural integrity, rich patina development, and environmental sustainability.

The complete vegetable tanning process requires approximately six weeks to transform raw hides into finished leather. The tannery sources North American cattle and processes hides through a traditional method that includes drum dyeing, fat liquoring, and hot stuffing. This eco-friendly approach produces durable leathers recognized for depth of color and the ability to develop distinctive patina over time.