Double Stuffed

Wickett & Craig Double Stuffed

Leather Type

About

Wickett & Craig Double Stuffed is a vegetable-tanned leather made from two layers of full-grain leather and saturated with waxes, oils, and tallow through a specialized hot stuffing process. Produced by Wickett & Craig, this leather is available exclusively through Nick's Boots in colors including Buck Brown, Burgundy, Natural, and Slate.[1]

The Double Stuffed designation refers to leather that returns to hot stuffing drums for a second treatment at the end of the finishing process, creating enhanced pull-up characteristics and improved stain resistance. This leather combines traditional vegetable tanning with intensive oil and wax saturation, resulting in a material that develops distinctive patina over time while maintaining durability.

Manufacturing process

Double Stuffed leather follows Wickett & Craig's standard six-week vegetable tanning process before receiving additional hot stuffing treatment.[2] The process begins with pre-tanning over two days, during which hides are rehydrated, hair is removed, excess flesh is removed using a fleshing machine, and hides are cut into two sides.[2]

The tanning stage takes two weeks using 72 vats containing a proprietary blend of tannins from Mimosa and Quebracho tree bark.[2] Throughout this period, tanning liquor is continually replenished and recirculated. Hides undergo sammying to remove moisture, then are split and shaved to desired thickness.[2]

In the third stage, which lasts several days, hides are drum dyed in various shades and fat-liquored with conditioning oils and waxes.[2] English Bridle and Harness leathers receive hot stuffing with waxes and tallows during this phase. The hides then air dry for approximately three days and are staked to soften.[2]

The hot stuffing process uses heat to infuse leather with a blend of natural waxes, tallows, and oils.[4] Unlike standard methods, this process employs unrefined fats and oils that are solid at room temperature, which are pounded into the skins via tumbling in heated barrels without water or emulsifiers.[4] The treatment penetrates leather to its core, keeping it soft and supple while providing weather resistance.[4]

The final finishing stage includes spraying with special waxes for feel and protection, applying polyurethane for abrasion resistance, and ironing to create a smooth, even surface.[2] Each hide receives a final grade before shipment.[2]

Characteristics

Double Stuffed leather exhibits pronounced pull-up effects, where lighter-hued lines, shading, and color variations develop when the leather is pulled, folded, or stretched as waxes and oils shift within the material.[5] This visual characteristic distinguishes hot-stuffed leathers from standard finishes.

The waxes and oils combine with leather fibers to create a strong bond, resulting in leather that will not tear, flake, or warp.[5] The saturation with oils and waxes provides good water resistance and excellent durability over time.[4]

Hot-stuffed leathers may develop bloom, a cloudy or hazy appearance as oils rise to the surface.[4][5] This bloom can be buffed away or will wear away naturally with use.[4]

The leather develops patina through exposure to elements, regular use, and contact with skin oils.[5] Vegetable-tanned leathers change color when exposed to direct sunlight, initially reacting similar to human skin and aging to a dark caramel brown.[5] Areas of frequent contact burnish darker over time.[5]

The high oil content makes Double Stuffed leather unsuitable for molding or stamping.[4] The saturation creates a leather that essentially maintains itself for many years as oils and waxes from the core are drawn to the surface.[5]

Applications

Nick's Boots uses Double Stuffed leather for custom belts and made-to-order boots.[1] The belts measure 1.5 inches wide, feature solid brass hardware and Chicago screws for easy buckle changes, and include seven evenly spaced holes for sizing.[1] These products combine luxury craftsmanship with everyday durability.[1]

Hot-stuffed leathers are ideal for items requiring weather resistance and long-term durability, including weighted reins, gun belts, carry belts, dog collars, headstalls, harnesses, and weightlifting belts.[4] The rich feel and 100% vegetable tanning make the leather suitable for applications where natural materials and traditional methods are valued.[4]

Light-weight leathers from Wickett & Craig are used for luxury goods including shoes, bags, and belts, while heavy-weight leathers serve traditional equestrian gear including saddles, bridles, and straps.[3]

References

  • 1.
  • 2.

    "Vegetable Tanning". Wickett-Craig. Retrieved October 9, 2025.

  • 3.

    "About Us". Wickett-Craig. Retrieved October 9, 2025.

  • 4.

    "What is Hot Stuffed Leather?". Weaver Leather Supply. Retrieved October 9, 2025.

  • 5.

    "Hot Stuffed Leather Characteristics". Weaver Leather Supply. Retrieved October 9, 2025.

  • Help improve this content to report errors or suggest improvements
  • By TangibleLily929 • April 6, 2025"Tough and durable, is how I describe W&C. I did not condition them at all these six months. I did a true testament of the leather’s stock capabilities. It felt like the massive amounts of oils and waxes in the Wicket & Craig protected and reinforced the leather greatly. I think now that the competition is over, they are surely due for their first good conditioning. As a dancer, the term break-in goes to a whole new level. I’m not just walking, climbing and bending. You have to add spinning, twisting, lunging, toe-pointing, side crossing, and many other unique movements in the cha-cha, Waltz, country, Latin and line dances that I teach, compete and social dance in. I pulled, pushed, stretched and squished these babies to lengths and small spaces that they have never seen before. Don’t get me wrong, logging is hard work, but the amount and styles of dancing I do every day isn’t a walk in the park either. Since this was my first pair of nicks, I do believe I ordered a whole size too large in length. This created an extra set of challenges due to extra leather around my feet and empty space in the back of the heel. Since I do point and extend my toe, along with stepping sideways in a rolling in-and-out fashion, the extra leather had to go somewhere as I stretched and pressed the boots in odd shapes. My left boot’s heel counter started to unfortunately curve inward and began bruising my heal immensely. I don’t believe this would have happened if I chosen the correct size for me. I still pushed through the pain, but after seeing the bruising getting worse, I couldn’t risk injury. If I would have continued using my boots dancing an average of 13 hours a day, it would have ended in an achilles tendon injury for sure. I had no choice but to remove some of the leather that was three full grain layers thick at my achilles. After I modified and sowed a patch on myself with thin leather I purchased, I was able to relieve the odd pressure and heal my foot and continue wearing the boots. The necessary modification gave me the relief I needed to dance another day. If I would have had more time, I would have taken it too a cobbler, but desperate times… Since I wore my boots constantly, I would go home and brush the floor wax, dirt and grit every night. Sometimes I would do it multiple times a day if necessary. A handful of times I used water and a cotton cloth to clean. I never conditioned, fully expecting the stock wax and oils to deliver enough protection...."Read the full review
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