Wickett & Craig Russet Harness with Kustom Color Treatment

KREOSOTE, operated by bootmaker JD Gabbard, produces made-to-measure custom boots using traditional American and European cordwainer methods. The use of this exclusive leather treatment reflects the bootmaker's focus on American tanneries and specialized materials for heritage footwear construction.

The foundation of this exclusive leather is Russet Traditional Harness, which undergoes the standard Wickett & Craig Traditional Harness manufacturing process. This includes vegetable tanning, hot stuffing with an exclusive blend of waxes, oils, and tallows, and jack glazing to create a glossy finish while preserving the natural grain. The russet color provides a reddish-brown tone characteristic of traditional harness leather.

The leather exhibits the marbling and natural grain preservation typical of Traditional Harness, with oils brought to the surface through the jack glazing process. The back side is refinished with gum paste, creating a waxy and smooth texture. These base characteristics are consistent with all Russet Traditional Harness leather before any Kustom Color Treatment is applied.

As a variant of Russet Traditional Harness, this leather is produced from the standard Wickett & Craig Traditional Harness weight ranges of 2-3 oz. to 13-15 oz. The specific weights and grades selected for KREOSOTE boots are determined by the bootmaker's design requirements and are not publicly specified.

Standard Russet Traditional Harness dimensions include average side sizes of 24-27 square feet and average back sizes of 18-20 square feet. The leather is available in Standard, Utility, and Special grades from Wickett & Craig, though the grade specifications for the Kustom Color Treatment are not documented.

This leather is exclusive to KREOSOTE boots, reflecting the bootmaker's approach to sourcing specialized materials from American tanneries. KREOSOTE operates as a one-man workshop producing limited quantities of made-to-measure boots, with extended wait times reflecting the handcraft nature of production. The exclusive leather treatment represents one element of the bootmaker's focus on distinctive materials and traditional construction methods.

The nature of the Kustom Color Treatment—whether it involves modified dyeing, special finishing, specific grade selection, or other customization—is not publicly disclosed. This proprietary specification distinguishes KREOSOTE's use of Russet Traditional Harness from standard applications of the leather.