C.F. Stead Navy Janus Calf Suede

Leather Color

About

Navy is a color variant of Janus Calf Suede, a full-grain calf suede manufactured by C.F. Stead in Leeds, England. The navy colorway maintains the characteristic silky texture and dual-sided construction of Janus Calf while offering a deep blue finish that provides versatility across formal and casual footwear applications. Like other Janus colors, navy is produced using C.F. Stead's tanning recipe that has remained unchanged for 50 years.

The navy variant features a deep blue color applied to the characteristic silky suede surface while retaining the material's full-grain construction and natural aniline reverse. This full-grain structure provides tighter fibers compared to split suede, resulting in enhanced water resistance and durability.

Material Properties

Navy Janus Calf Suede is made from selected young calf skins with a weight specification of 3.5 to 4.5 ounces, corresponding to a thickness of 1.4 to 1.8 millimeters. The suede features a luxurious silky finish on the primary surface, with the handle described as "a touch firmer than soft" compared to softer suede varieties. The full-grain construction means the leather's fibers are tighter, providing better structure and water resistance than split hides.

The manufacturing process involves chrome tanning followed by aniline dyeing to achieve the navy color. The suede surface receives a finely sanded nap treatment, creating the characteristic smooth and silky texture. Each hide exhibits individual variations in grain pattern and color depth due to the natural properties of the leather.

Heritage and Development

Janus Calf Suede was originally developed for Northampton's traditional welted shoemakers and has served as a benchmark for footwear suede quality for decades. The name "Janus" derives from the Roman god known for having two faces, referencing the leather's dual-sided nature with both a suede surface and a natural full-grain reverse. C.F. Stead has maintained the original tanning recipe unchanged for 50 years, preserving the material's distinctive characteristics across all color variants including navy.

The British tannery, established over a century ago in Leeds, has focused on premium suede production. The navy colorway provides a versatile deep blue option suitable for both traditional dress footwear and contemporary casual applications.

Applications

Navy Janus Calf Suede is primarily intended as a suede, with the grain side recommended only for trim applications. The material is thick enough to support design features in shoe construction and can be prepared for various traditional construction methods. The full-grain construction makes it suitable for traditional Goodyear welted construction methods and allows for year-round wear.

Viberg has produced footwear including slides using navy Janus Calf Suede, demonstrating the color's application in contemporary heritage footwear. The deep navy finish offers an alternative to black suede while maintaining formality suitable for dress applications.

Care and Durability

Navy Janus Calf Suede maintains its shape over time and evolves with wear, gradually molding to the wearer's foot. The full-grain construction provides enhanced resistance to water compared to split suede, though regular maintenance with appropriate suede care products remains recommended.

The tighter fiber structure inherent to full-grain construction allows the leather to maintain durability comparable to traditional full-grain leather when properly processed and cared for. The material requires minimal maintenance, typically limited to occasional brushing to maintain the nap and periodic application of water-repellent treatments.

References

  • 1.

    "C.F. Stead Janus Calf Leather, Suede, Calf". The Tannery Row. Retrieved October 2, 2025.

  • 2.

    "The Finest Calf Suede - Janus from C.F. Stead". Crown Northampton. Retrieved October 2, 2025.

  • 3.

    "Viberg Slide in C.F. Stead Navy Janus Calf Suede". Patina Project. Retrieved October 2, 2025.

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