Conceria Cloe Lux Horsebutt

The leather is fully vegetable tanned using traditional pit tanning methods from European raw horse hides. Conceria Cloe specializes in horse leathers including shell cordovan, horse avancorpo, and horse culatta, applying slow vegetable tanning processes without pigmentation.

Conceria Cloe S.R.L. produces Lux horsebutt at their facility in Ponte a Egola, Pisa, in the Tuscany region of Italy. The tanning process involves slow vegetable tanning in pits, using natural tannins without applied pigments. This full vegetable tanning method, traditional to the Tuscan leather industry, creates leather with high oil content and distinctive aging properties.

The production uses European raw horse hides, with the horsebutt section cut from the hind portion of the hide. The leather is processed with no pigmentation, resulting in a natural appearance that develops character over time through use and wear.

Lux horsebutt exhibits several distinctive physical and aesthetic properties. The leather features extremely flexible and resistant construction with a very distinctive sheen and transparency. The surface displays subtle grain variation with a dry, matte touch before use, though it develops a lustrous patina with an almost metallic sheen over time.

The grain pattern is described as beautiful with awesome characteristics, though the leather is initially stiff and requires a break-in period. Over extended use, the material develops an aggressive and interesting patina, with the vegetable tanning contributing to natural aging and color evolution.

Some variants, particularly the Natural/Nuda line, use a weight of 1.8-2.0mm, lighter than typical horsebutt leathers. These lighter variants require almost zero breaking in from day one despite maintaining structural support.

The Lux designation represents a product line within Conceria Cloe's horsebutt offerings rather than a specific color. Within this line, the leather is available in multiple color options. The Superlux variant is produced in Black and Burgundy colors for footwear applications.

Additional colors include Natural or undyed horsebutt variants and Olive in the Feng product line. Overdyed Black is available as an option for makers requiring darker finishing. The Col 1 designation appears on some products, representing the primary natural or tan color option.

Lux horsebutt is used by several heritage footwear manufacturers. Sagara Bootmaker incorporates the leather in multiple models including the Cordmaster, Imperial IV, and Legatant boots. The Indonesian manufacturer uses both the Superlux and Natural Nuda variants depending on the specific boot model and construction requirements.

Meermin uses Conceria Cloe Superlux horsebutt in their Norvegese Service Boots, marketing the material as Col 1 Horse Butt. Guarded Goods employs the leather for belts and leather accessories, demonstrating the material's versatility beyond footwear applications.

The leather is typically applied to uppers, though some constructions use it for insoles, welts, and outsoles when using the reverse or flesh side of the hide. Standard thickness of 2.5mm allows for various applications, with splitting services available to reduce thickness from 2.5mm down to 0.6-0.8mm for specific uses.