Horween Black Chromexcel

The leather undergoes the same 89-step production process as other Chromexcel colors, taking 28 working days and utilizing all five floors of Horween's facility. Black Chromexcel combines chrome and vegetable tanning methods with hot stuffing of oils and waxes, creating a supple yet durable leather that ages well while maintaining its deep black color. The material is widely used in heritage footwear applications, particularly for boots and shoes where durability and character development over time are valued.

Black Chromexcel follows the same combination tanning process as other Chromexcel varieties, beginning with chrome tanning in large wooden drums that hold approximately 20,000 pounds of product. After 48 hours, the hides achieve the characteristic "wet blue" stage of chrome tanning. The process continues with vegetable retanning using proprietary bark extracts that Horween has been making at the tannery since 1905 in vegetable tanning pits about eight feet deep.

The distinctive hot stuffing process impregnates the black-dyed hides with oils, waxes, and greases that remain solid at room temperature. This process uses food-grade beef tallow and cosmetic-grade beeswax, applied through steamed mills that heat the leather to allow penetration of the fatty substances. The final step involves several hand-rubbed coats of aniline finish and a coating of Neatsfoot oil.

The entire manufacturing process requires precise control of chemistry, including specific concentrations, temperatures, run times, and pH levels. Each step contributes to the leather's final characteristics of suppleness, durability, and aging properties.

Black Chromexcel exhibits the same physical properties as other Chromexcel colors but with one key difference: it lacks the visible pull-up effect that characterizes lighter Chromexcel colors. Pull-up refers to the temporary displacement of oils and wax blends that causes lightening of the leather when stretched or bent, creating attractive two-tone gradients across the surface.

The leather maintains the natural grain patterns and full aniline finish of standard Chromexcel. The combination of chrome and vegetable tanning creates a material that is both strong and flexible, with the heavier weight versions combined with the tannage producing a forgiving, elastic leather. This elasticity allows Chromexcel to stretch and accommodate pressure more than most leathers, avoiding lengthy break-in periods.

Black Chromexcel demonstrates considerable durability and resists hardening and salt stains. The high oil content allows surface scratches to be buffed out with minimal effort, often requiring only thumb pressure to blend the color back to its original state. The leather retains softness and color for generations while developing character through wear patterns and creasing.

Available weights range from 2-3 oz (0.8-1.2 mm) horsefronts to 9-10 oz (3.6-4.0 mm) cowhide, with common weights including 3.5/4 oz, 4.5/5 oz, 6/7 oz, and 8/10 oz. The leather maintains a semi-soft firmness rating suitable for various applications.

Black Chromexcel requires minimal maintenance due to its high oil and wax content from the manufacturing process. Neatsfoot oil is the recommended first choice for conditioning, as it represents the final step in Chromexcel production. The day-to-day care routine involves applying a conditioner every few months to keep the leather hydrated and deepen the color.

The leather develops highs and lows from creasing and individual wear, becoming distinctive to each user. The vegetable retanning component plays an essential role in this aging characteristic, allowing the leather to develop depth and character over time while maintaining structural integrity.

The natural variations in the leather, sometimes referred to as the "Chromexcel lottery," create differences in break patterns from one piece to another, contributing to the individual character of each item. Black Chromexcel retains softness and color for generations while developing character through wear patterns and creasing.