M-43 Service Shoes

The shoes are constructed on the Munson last, the same last shape used for the original M-43 service shoes. This last was developed by U.S. Army Doctor Edward Munson in 1912 after studying the feet of over 2,000 soldiers and remained the standard military boot last through the Korean War. John Lofgren's M-43 Service Shoes maintain the unstructured toe construction and 6-inch shaft height of the originals while incorporating modern materials and Japanese manufacturing expertise.

The original M-43 service shoes were introduced by the U.S. Army in 1943 as Type III footwear during World War II. These replaced the earlier Type I and Type II Service Shoes that had been general issue items until early 1943, when new designs were developed specifically for overseas military use. The M-43 combat boots entered general issue by winter 1944-45 and were worn by all service branches, including Paratroopers, Armored units, and Infantry during major operations like the Battle of the Bulge.

The Munson last used in the original design was an important development in military footwear. Patented in 1912 by U.S. Army Doctor Edward Munson, it was created after extensive research studying the feet of over 2,000 soldiers. The last was designed to naturally contour to the foot, accommodate various foot types, and provide durability for long marches. This last remained the standard for military boots from 1912 through the Korean War, establishing its effectiveness across decades of military service.

The original M-43 specifications included composition sole construction, welted assembly, and natural combination-tanned rough-out cowhide uppers, all built on the Munson last with an unstructured toe design. The shoes gained cultural recognition beyond military use, notably when Steve McQueen wore them in "The Great Escape," cementing their place in American military heritage.

John Lofgren's M-43 Service Shoes feature comprehensive Japanese construction using traditional bootmaking methods. The shoes employ Goodyear welt construction reinforced with USA-made storm welts, creating a 360-degree storm welt that can be rebuilt by cobblers after extended wear. This construction method enhances durability and provides long-term serviceability for the footwear.

The construction process incorporates heavy single, triple, and quadruple stitching patterns that enhance the shoes' ruggedness and structural integrity. Japanese-made steel shanks provide stability and arch support throughout the midsole area. The 6-inch shaft height maintains the proportions of the original design while the 1.5-inch stacked heel preserves the historical profile.

Materials selection emphasizes both authenticity and quality. The uppers use Horween Chromexcel roughout leather, sourced from the same tannery that supplied leather to the U.S. Army for original M-43 service shoes during World War II. This leather choice connects the modern reproduction to its historical origins while providing the durability and aging characteristics associated with Chromexcel leather.

The sole and heel assembly uses USA-made Vibram 705 soles paired with 700 heels, providing improved traction and longevity compared to the composition soles of the original design. Military-specification eyelets and speed hooks are used throughout the lacing system, maintaining the functional hardware approach of military footwear. The shoes feature unlined construction with an unstructured toe box, preserving the soft-toe characteristics of the original M-43 design.

The M-43 Service Shoes are built on the authentic Munson last, maintaining the same foot shape and proportions as the original World War II service shoes. This last design creates a naturally contoured fit that accommodates various foot types while providing the comfort and durability requirements developed for military use. The last's wide toe box and supportive arch geometry reflect the extensive research conducted by Dr. Munson in developing this military standard.

Sizing recommendations for the M-43 Service Shoes account for the generous fit characteristics of the Munson last. Wearers should typically select 0.5 size smaller than their Brannock device measurement. For reference with other heritage footwear, the sizing aligns closely with Red Wing Iron Ranger or Alden Barrie last measurements, and matches Viberg 2030 last sizing. The shoes are available exclusively in D width, reflecting the single-width approach of military footwear specifications.

The company updated the sizing system in 2023, shifting the numerical sizing up by 0.5 size to align more consistently with the rest of the catalog. The fit characteristics and last shape remained unchanged, with only the size markings adjusted for catalog consistency. This change affects size selection but does not alter the actual foot accommodation of the shoes.

The unstructured toe construction means the shoes lack internal celastic or reinforcement to maintain last shape. This soft-toe design allows the leather to conform to the wearer's foot over time but also means the toe area will show more deflection and shape change compared to shoes with structured toe boxes. Proper sizing becomes particularly important with this construction style, as insufficient room can lead to premature toe box collapse while excessive room may result in poor fit and appearance.