Maryam Walnut Waxed Reverse Horsebutt

The development of Maryam Walnut Waxed Reverse Horsebutt represents a significant collaboration between Viberg and Maryam tannery, one of Italy's premier vegetable tanning facilities. This partnership has resulted in several specialized tannage processes designed specifically for Viberg's construction methods, with the walnut reverse horsebutt being among the most distinctive offerings.

The exclusive relationship between Viberg and Maryam has produced innovations like the Sego tannage, developed by Brett Viberg and Maryam specifically to create horsebutt leather that is softer and better suited for Stitchdown construction products. This development includes a higher concentration of oils and waxes, which contributes to the leather's distinctive appearance and working characteristics.

The TPR (thermoplastic resin) horsebutt tannage was also developed collaboratively with Maryam to create leather soft enough for Viberg's signature Stitchdown construction. The TPR tannage features a unique oil and wax blend that softens the leather, making it more flexible and more easily turned outwards when sewn into the midsole, while maintaining the durability and character expected from premium horsebutt leather.

Walnut Waxed Reverse Horsebutt exhibits the exceptional physical characteristics associated with the finest horse hide leather. The hide above the shell portion yields an extremely dense and durable leather that molds to the foot and produces a beautiful patina through use. Like most horsebutt from Maryam, this leather maintains good thickness yet preserves excellent pliability, making it suitable for demanding construction applications.

The leather displays a fibrous and varied grain texture that molds to the foot through heavy wear while maintaining structural form. This characteristic enables the development of dramatic patina with a natural dress finish that improves with age and use. The full weight horsebutt construction is particularly prized for its resilience with limited maintenance requirements, intense and varied grain character, and exceptional propensity to evolve dramatically over time.

The reverse finishing process showcases portions where shell transitions to flesh, creating significant changes in texture and tone across the leather surface. The process of drum dyeing and waxing during tanning deepens the distinction of the hides, ensuring that each pair made from this leather becomes completely unique to the individual wearer through the interaction of the specialized finishing with natural use patterns.

The innovative TPR finish represents a significant advancement in horsebutt leather processing, developed specifically for this exclusive collaboration. The TPR process thermally plates a resin to the grain surface, highlighting natural characteristics while creating a more consistent shell-like surface appearance. This treatment allows for the development of a more stable burnished patina compared to unfinished leather alternatives.

The TPR finishing takes the best qualities of vegetable cordovan-tanned horsebutts and enhances them with the visual appeal of shell cordovan while providing lower maintenance requirements and increased flexibility. This innovation addresses the traditional challenges of working with horsebutt leather while preserving the characteristics that make it desirable for premium applications.

The unique oil and wax blend incorporated into the TPR tannage serves multiple functions, softening the leather for construction purposes while contributing to the distinctive shiny appearance that develops through use. This specialized treatment ensures that the leather remains workable for Viberg's construction methods while developing the rich patina characteristics that make each piece unique.

The walnut coloration of this exclusive leather exhibits a distinctive brown tone described as "warm as an heirloom empire desk with a dust-to-taupe-to-deep" character. This complex color profile reflects the sophisticated approach to leather finishing that characterizes the Viberg-Maryam collaboration, creating visual depth that enhances with age and use.

The leather presents a matte appearance enhanced by natural scarring, variations, and striations throughout the surface. These natural characteristics are preserved and highlighted through the specialized finishing process, ensuring that each hide displays authentic markings that reflect the individual history of the source animal. The abundance of natural scarring and blemishes is considered a desirable feature that contributes to the authentic, artisanal appeal of products made from this premium leather.

The reverse processing reveals the waxed flesh side as the primary exterior surface, creating a distinctive roughout texture that contrasts with traditional grain-side leather finishes. This presentation showcases the natural fiber structure of horse hide while benefiting from the protective and aesthetic enhancement provided by the specialized wax treatment.

The aging characteristics of Walnut Waxed Reverse Horsebutt represent one of its most prized features, with the leather demonstrating exceptional development through regular use. The combination of cordovan extracts and specialized finishing ensures that the leather develops markedly over time, creating increasingly rich and complex coloration patterns that reflect individual use patterns.

User experiences demonstrate that the leather develops attractive roll patterns as the vamp breaks in and flexes during wear. The leather toe puff may flatten over time, contributing to an almost vintage appearance that many users find highly desirable. This natural evolution represents the intended aging process rather than deterioration, adding value and character to products made from this leather.

Some variations of this leather exhibit "slow teacore" characteristics, meaning the underlying color reveals gradually through wear rather than rapidly changing appearance. This slower development pattern allows for subtle evolution of color and character that develops over extended periods, creating unique patination that cannot be replicated through artificial aging processes.

The finish responds well to maintenance, with the ability to return to an attractive shine when brushed for approximately ten minutes with quality horsehair brushing tools. This responsiveness to care ensures that the leather can be maintained in excellent condition while allowing natural patina development to continue.

The exclusive nature of Maryam Walnut Waxed Reverse Horsebutt has resulted in extremely limited availability, with most releases appearing as special collaborations between Viberg and select retailers. These limited releases often feature leather from Viberg's archive stock, making restocking unlikely and increasing the collectible value of products made from this material.

Collaborations with retailers like Division Road and Withered Fig have produced some of the most sought-after releases featuring this leather. These partnerships have resulted in unique colorways and construction combinations that are not available through regular production channels, creating significant demand among collectors and enthusiasts.

The single-batch nature of walnut horsebutt tannage means that each release represents a finite quantity of leather with unique characteristics specific to that particular batch. This approach appeals to collectors who value rarity and uniqueness, with each pair becoming completely individual through the combination of natural leather variation and personal wear patterns.

The description of this leather as "one of the most unique and extreme leathers" by experienced retailers reflects its position at the pinnacle of premium leather offerings. This recognition has contributed to strong secondary market values and high demand whenever new releases become available.

The compatibility of Walnut Waxed Reverse Horsebutt with Viberg's construction methods represents a key factor in its development and success. The leather's ability to work well with Stitchdown construction techniques, while maintaining the aesthetic and performance characteristics desired in premium footwear, demonstrates the effectiveness of the collaborative development process.

The specialized TPR finishing and oil/wax blending make the leather more easily turned outwards when sewn into the midsole, addressing one of the traditional challenges of working with dense horsebutt leather. This innovation allows bootmakers to achieve proper construction while preserving the leather's natural characteristics and aging potential.

The leather's performance in demanding footwear applications demonstrates its suitability for both dress and casual boot styles. The combination of durability, moldability to the foot, and exceptional patina development makes it particularly valuable for customers seeking long-term footwear investments that improve with age and use.

The resilience with limited maintenance requirements makes this leather practical for regular use while maintaining its premium aesthetic appeal. This balance of performance and appearance has contributed to its reputation among discerning customers who value both functional excellence and visual distinction in their footwear choices.

Proper care of Walnut Waxed Reverse Horsebutt emphasizes techniques that support rather than interfere with the natural aging process that makes this leather particularly valuable. The leather's responsiveness to brushing makes regular brushing with quality horsehair tools the most important maintenance practice, helping to maintain the finish while supporting continued patina development.

The natural oils and waxes incorporated into the TPR finishing provide inherent protection, reducing the need for intensive conditioning routines. Over-conditioning should be avoided as it may interfere with the natural aging process and patina development that makes this leather particularly desirable among collectors and enthusiasts.

The matte appearance and natural scarring characteristics of the leather mean that minor surface marks and variations are part of the intended aesthetic rather than flaws to be corrected. This understanding helps owners appreciate the authentic character of the leather while maintaining it appropriately for long-term use.

Proper storage during periods of non-use helps preserve the leather's condition while allowing continued slow aging and character development. Well-ventilated storage prevents moisture accumulation while maintaining the environmental conditions that support healthy leather aging.

Walnut Waxed Reverse Horsebutt occupies the highest tier of the premium leather market, with its exclusive availability and unique characteristics commanding premium pricing and strong collector interest. The collaboration between Viberg and Maryam tannery represents a meeting of Canadian bootmaking excellence with Italian leather craftsmanship, creating products that appeal to the most discerning customers.

The limited nature of releases featuring this leather has created strong secondary market demand, with products often appreciating in value due to the combination of limited availability, exceptional quality, and the reputation of both the tannery and the bootmaker. This appreciation reflects both the inherent quality of the leather and the craftsmanship of the finished products.

The leather's position as one of the most extreme and unique offerings available through premium boot channels has established it as a benchmark for exclusive leather collaborations. This recognition extends beyond functional performance to encompass the storytelling and heritage aspects that appeal to collectors seeking distinctive and meaningful additions to their collections.

Division Road. "Ranch & Runway Horsebutt Chelsea Pack". Division Road. Retrieved September 24, 2025.

Viberg. "Split Horsebutt". Viberg. Retrieved September 24, 2025.

Division Road. "Italian Horsebutt Service Boot Series". Division Road. Retrieved September 24, 2025.

Viberg. "Charcoal & Walnut Cypress". Viberg. Retrieved September 24, 2025.

Division Road. "Rarities Renewed Release". Division Road. Retrieved September 24, 2025.

Withered Fig. "Viberg Service Boot - Col. 1071 Waxed Horsebutt and Black Waxed Horsebutt". Withered Fig. Retrieved September 24, 2025.

Patina Project. "Review: Viberg Service Boot". Patina Project. Retrieved September 24, 2025.