Red Wing Shoes

The company gained recognition in the heritage footwear market through its Red Wing Heritage collection launched in 2007, which revived classic models from the company's archives. Red Wing boots are manufactured using more than 230 handcrafted steps and feature leather from the company's own S.B. Foot Tanning Company, which employs a patented oil-tanning process developed in the 1940s.

Red Wing Shoe Company was established in February 1905 when Charles Beckman, a successful Main Street shoe merchant, partnered with 14 other local Red Wing business investors. Beckman's goal was to build better work boots using quality materials and construction methods. The company initially used "pegged-and-nailed construction" before adopting stitched-sole construction through welting, which created stronger bonds between the shoe upper and sole.

J.R. Sweasy was hired as superintendent and by 1919 became the first of four generations of the Sweasy family to own and operate the company. The Sweasy family has maintained ownership for over 100 years, with the company remaining in Red Wing, Minnesota throughout its history. Key product milestones include the debut of the Gloria women's boot in 1926 and the creation of the 877 Classic Moc Toe in 1952.

In 1987, Red Wing acquired S.B. Foot Tanning Company, integrating leather production into their manufacturing process. The company celebrated its 100th anniversary in 2005 by constructing the world's largest boot, size 638½ D, demonstrating its commitment to craftsmanship and heritage.

Red Wing operates manufacturing facilities in Red Wing, Minnesota, where all Heritage collection boots are produced. Each pair of boots requires more than 230 handcrafted steps to complete, reflecting the company's commitment to traditional bootmaking methods. The manufacturing process emphasizes hand-welting, quality leather selection, and triple-stitching for durability.

Most Red Wing boots use Goodyear welt construction, a process dating back to 1869 that stitches a thin leather welt together with the upper and insole before attaching the sole. This construction method provides durability and allows boots to be resoled. Some Red Wing models use Stitchdown construction, a method dating back to the 17th century where the upper is turned outwards and stitched directly to the midsole, creating greater flexibility and immediate comfort.

The company maintains quality control through its integrated production system, controlling both leather tanning and boot assembly under one ownership structure. This vertical integration allows Red Wing to maintain consistent material quality and manufacturing standards across its product lines.

Red Wing produces most of its leather through S.B. Foot Tanning Company, a wholly owned subsidiary located in Red Wing, Minnesota. S.B. Foot serves as the principal supplier of leather to Red Wing's manufacturing plants and processes hides using a special oil-tanning technique developed in the 1940s and patented specifically for Red Wing.

The oil-tanning process results in leather with 22 percent oil content, compared to the industry standard of eight to 10 percent. This higher oil content makes the leather highly flexible, hard-wearing, and water-repellent despite its thickness. The tanning process involves spinning hides in barrels with tree oils, tanning agents, and dyes, allowing chemicals to penetrate the leather fibers thoroughly.

S.B. Foot sources steerhides primarily from within a 600-mile radius of Red Wing, receiving them as "wet blues" - chrome-tanned leather kept wet and colored blue from chromium salts. The extended spinning process allows dyes and oils to seep into the leather cells and fibers, creating the distinctive characteristics of Red Wing's oil-tanned leathers.

Red Wing Heritage launched in 2007 as a partnership with J.Crew, focusing on reviving classic Red Wing models with traditional construction methods and timeless design. The Heritage collection produces historical Red Wing styles to the exacting standards of earlier decades, manufactured in American factories using original construction techniques.

Key models in the Heritage collection include the Iron Ranger, originally built for iron miners in the 1930s, and the Blacksmith, designed to protect workers from hot cinders at forges. The Beckman boot, named after founder Charles Beckman, was recently relaunched after being discontinued. The Classic Moc Toe (877 model) was created in 1952 and remains a signature style.

For detailed specifications and construction details of individual Heritage models, see their dedicated articles.

Red Wing boots typically fit larger than standard athletic shoe sizes, with sizing recommendations suggesting customers order half to one full size down from their normal sneaker size. The company offers boots in three width options: D for regular foot shapes, E for medium width, and EE for wider feet. Customers with narrow feet may require sizing down a full size from their standard measurements.

Red Wing leather stretches during the break-in period, which typically spans several weeks of regular wear. The company recommends a snug initial fit on the sides where most stretching occurs during this period. The leather insoles and cork midsoles gradually conform to individual foot shapes, creating custom comfort over time.

The break-in process varies by leather type, with oil-tanned leathers like Amber Harness and Copper Rough and Tough requiring different care approaches. Oil-tanned leathers are more resilient and require minimal maintenance, while other leather types may need specific conditioning products to maintain flexibility and appearance during the break-in period.