Seidel 1964 Black Roughout

Leather Color • exclusive for Nicks

About

Black is a color variant of 1964 Roughout, a chrome-tanned roughout leather developed through collaboration between Nicks Handmade Boots and Seidel Tanning Corp. The 1964 Roughout line was unveiled in 2021, with black added as one of several color expansions following the original brown release. The leather features a napped surface texture created by exposing the flesh side of full-grain leather, dyed black throughout the hide for uniform coloration.

The black variant shares the core characteristics of the 1964 Roughout line: seven to eight ounce thickness, heavy oil infusion through hot-stuffing, and chrome-tanned construction. The black color is achieved through struckthrough dyeing, which permeates the entire hide rather than surface treatment alone. This color variant appears on Nicks models including the Ridgeline Hiking Boot and Work Chelsea.

Availability and introduction

The 1964 leather line debuted in 2021 after a two-year development process between Nicks Handmade Boots and Seidel Tanning Corp. The initial release featured brown as the sole color option. The color range subsequently expanded to include black, walnut, chocolate, tan, mahogany, monarch, and ash gray.

The 1964 line includes roughout variants in brown, grey, mahogany, monarch, and tan, with black available in both smooth and roughout finishes. The black roughout variant was documented in use on Nicks models by 2024.

Leather specifications

1964 Black Roughout is chrome-tanned steerhide leather finished at seven to eight ounces thickness, approximately 3 millimeters. The leather receives heavy infusion of oils and waxes through Seidel's hot-stuffing process during tanning. The chrome tanning method produces softer leather than vegetable-tanned alternatives from first use, with high tensile strength and superior water resistance.

The black oiled rough out from Seidel Tanning contains large amounts of oil for water resistance. The leather measures approximately 3.5 millimeters thick with semi-firm temper. Chrome-tanned leather exhibits characteristics that make it suitable for boots subjected to wet conditions, stretching well while maintaining structural integrity.

Roughout construction

Roughout leather is full-grain leather turned inside-out during construction, exposing the flesh side while retaining the top grain layer on the interior. This construction creates a napped surface texture that is more irregular and coarse compared to suede. The exposed flesh side provides the soft, textured feel associated with suede, while the retained grain layer on the interior maintains the resilience and durability of full-grain leather.

The textured surface excels at hiding scuffs and scratches that would be visible on smooth leather. Roughout is the most durable option among soft leathers including suede and nubuck. The roughout construction combines characteristics that make it suitable for hard-wearing footwear designed to withstand demanding conditions.

Black roughout properties

The leather is dyed black all the way through using struckthrough dyeing, creating uniform color throughout the hide. This dyeing method produces consistent coloration from surface to interior, unlike surface treatments that affect only the outer layer. The black color develops minimal patina compared to other leathers, with patina potential rated three out of 10.

The nappy texture can become burnished in spots with frequent friction. After wear, the nap can become matted down irregularly. The black color combined with the roughout texture creates a surface that naturally conceals wear patterns and maintains visual consistency over extended use.

Care and maintenance

Primary maintenance requires occasional brushing with a wire brush using light back-and-forth motion to gently remove dirt. Regular brushing restores the napped texture when it becomes matted from wear. The wire brush technique uses gentle pressure to avoid damaging the leather while effectively removing accumulated debris from the textured surface.

For waterproofing while preserving texture, suede spray maintains the rough texture while providing water resistance. Wax treatment offers waterproofing but causes noticeable color and texture changes. Users who wish to maintain the napped texture should avoid polish or wax applications.

If boots become wet, overnight air drying is recommended. Direct heat should never be used for drying as it can shrink the leather. The leather's existing oil content provides baseline water resistance that can be enhanced with appropriate treatments.

Performance characteristics

The chrome tanning process makes the leather softer than vegetable-tanned alternatives from the first day of use. The leather responds quickly to wear with typical break-in experience without excessive stiffness. The dense construction provides excellent durability while maintaining suitable characteristics for both work and casual wear applications.

The leather exhibits high tensile strength and stretches well during use. The superior water resistance compared to vegetable-tanned leather makes it suitable for conditions where moisture exposure occurs regularly. The roughout construction requires low maintenance compared to other leather types while demonstrating strong resistance to abrasion and wear.

References

  • 1.

    "Nicks Handmade Boots Since 1964". Seattle Fashion Collective. December 20, 2021. Retrieved October 19, 2025.

  • 2.

    "Leather Notes: Black Oiled Rough Out". Truman Boot Co. Retrieved October 19, 2025.

  • 3.

    "Down and Dirty: Roughout Leather Boots". Baker's Shoes. Retrieved October 19, 2025.

  • 4.

    "Tool Tote". Nicks Handmade Boots. Retrieved October 19, 2025.

  • 5.

    "Nicks Work Chelsea - Seidel 1964 Black Roughout". Patina Project. Retrieved October 19, 2025.

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