Seidel1964 Roughout

Seidel 1964 Roughout

Leather Type • exclusive for Nicks

About

1964 Roughout is a chrome-tanned roughout leather developed through collaboration between Nicks Handmade Boots and Seidel Tanning Corp. The leather is named after 1964, the year Nicks Boots was founded. The development process took two years and several iterations before the leather was unveiled in 2021.

The leather is made from chrome-tanned steerhide finished at seven to eight ounces thickness, approximately 3 millimeters. Seidel's hot-stuffing process heavily infuses the leather with oils and waxes, creating what Nicks describes as an "Easy Break-In" work leather. Despite starting with a dense, rigid temper, the leather becomes significantly more pliable after a few wears. The roughout construction exposes the flesh side of full-grain leather, creating a napped surface texture that combines the soft feel of suede with the resilience of full-grain leather.

Development

The collaboration between Nicks Handmade Boots and Milwaukee-based Seidel Tanning began with inspiration from an old pair of Nicks boots dating from the late 1970s or early 1980s. The development process spanned two years, requiring several iterations to achieve the desired characteristics. The leather was unveiled in 2021, named to commemorate the year Nicks Boots was founded.

The leather was originally available only in brown. The color range has since expanded to include black, walnut, chocolate, tan, mahogany, monarch, and ash gray.

Specifications

1964 Roughout is chrome-tanned steerhide leather with a thickness of seven to eight ounces, approximately 3 millimeters. The leather receives a heavy infusion of oils through Seidel's hot-stuffing process, with extra oils and waxes added during tanning to create a softer temper. This process produces dense and durable leather with excellent wind resistance and insulation properties.

The chrome tanning process makes the leather softer than vegetable-tanned alternatives from the first day of use. Chrome-tanned leather exhibits high tensile strength, stretches well, and demonstrates superior water resistance compared to vegetable-tanned leather, making it ideal for boots subjected to wet conditions.

Roughout construction

Roughout leather is full-grain leather turned inside-out during construction, exposing the flesh side while retaining the top grain layer on the interior. This construction creates a napped surface texture that is more irregular and coarse compared to suede. The textured surface excels at hiding scuffs and scratches that would be visible on smooth leather.

The roughout construction combines characteristics of both suede and full-grain leather. The exposed flesh side provides the soft, textured feel associated with suede, while the retained grain layer on the interior maintains the resilience and durability of full-grain leather work boots. Roughout leather tends to be thicker and less water-absorbent than suede, making it suitable for hard-wearing footwear designed to withstand demanding conditions.

Performance and aging

The leather begins with a dense, rigid temper but becomes significantly more pliable after the first few wears. The thickness and density of the leather create an easy break-in process despite the substantial weight of the material. The dense construction provides excellent durability while maintaining wind resistance and insulation properties.

The roughout surface develops patina as the leather ages, with areas not covered in dirt and dust darkening significantly over time. Lighter color shades show the most distinct evolution in appearance. The leather cleans up well after use and demonstrates strong patina potential throughout its lifespan.

Care and maintenance

Regular brushing with a wire brush represents the primary maintenance requirement for 1964 Roughout. Light back-and-forth motion with the brush gently removes dirt from the napped surface. Regular brushing is sufficient for routine care, and the leather can go a long time before requiring conditioning treatments.

For waterproofing while preserving the napped texture, suede spray provides effective protection without altering the leather's appearance. Wax treatments offer waterproofing but cause significant changes to both color and texture. The textured surface naturally excels at hiding scuffs and scratches, reducing the need for cosmetic treatments compared to smooth-finished leathers.

References

  • 1.

    "Work Leather". Nicks Handmade Boots. Retrieved October 16, 2025.

  • 2.

    "Nicks Handmade Boots Since 1964". Seattle Fashion Collective. December 20, 2021. Retrieved October 16, 2025.

  • 3.

    "Overlander Boot - 1964". Nicks Handmade Boots. Retrieved October 16, 2025.

  • 4.

    "What is Roughout Leather?". Chisos. Retrieved October 16, 2025.

  • 5.

    "Rough Out Leather". Truman Boot Co. Retrieved October 16, 2025.

  • 6.

    "Vegetable Tanned vs Chrome Tanned Leather". Butts and Shoulders. Retrieved October 16, 2025.

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