Wickett & Craig English Bridle

The manufacturing process begins with a two-day pre-tanning phase where hides are rehydrated and prepared for tanning. Workers remove hair and excess flesh using a fleshing machine before cutting the hides into two sides. The prepared hides then enter the tanning phase, where they soak for two weeks in tanning liquor containing a proprietary blend of Mimosa and Quebracho tree bark tannins. The facility maintains 72 vats that continually replenish and recirculate the tanning liquor to ensure consistent absorption. After tanning, the hides undergo sammying to remove excess moisture, receive a pre-grade assessment, and are split and shaved to desired thickness specifications.

Following the tanning phase, the leather receives its color through drum dyeing, which develops deep, consistent colors throughout the material. The hot stuffing process distinguishes English Bridle leather from other vegetable-tanned products. During this stage, the leather is saturated with predetermined amounts of waxes, oils, and tallows, infusing the material to its core with conditioning agents. This hot stuffing creates the leather's characteristic waxy feel and enhances both its color depth and durability. Each tannery uses unique formulas for the hot stuffing process, creating variations in texture and finish between different producers.

The finishing process begins with toggle drying on perforated stainless steel screens, followed by three days of air drying in climate-controlled space to prevent warping or uneven drying. Once dried, the leather undergoes staking, a mechanical process that softens the hides while maintaining their structural integrity. Workers then spray the leather with special waxes and apply polyurethane for abrasion resistance. The final step involves ironing to smooth the surface, followed by a final grading before shipment. The entire process, from pre-tanning through finishing, reflects Wickett & Craig's commitment to traditional craftsmanship while ensuring environmental certification by the Leather Working Group.

Fresh from the tannery, English Bridle leather begins as a stiff material that requires proper care and an ample break-in period to reach its optimal characteristics. As the leather experiences regular use, it becomes soft and supple while retaining significant strength. The material responds well to conditioning and accepts dye readily due to its vegetable-tanned structure. The flexibility of the leather makes it suitable for applications requiring both beauty and structural integrity, from high-end leather goods to heritage footwear.

One of the defining characteristics of Wickett & Craig English Bridle leather is its aging behavior. The leather improves with use, developing a rich patina that deepens in color and character over time. The waxes and oils infused during hot stuffing provide weather resistance, allowing the leather to repel water while maintaining its appearance through regular wear. This combination of durability and aesthetic development makes the leather particularly valued in the heritage footwear market, where buyers appreciate materials that tell a story through their evolving appearance.

The company produces English Bridle leather in weights ranging from 2-3 oz for lighter applications to 12-14 oz for heavy-duty uses. Common weight options include 2.5/3oz, 3.5/4oz, 4.5/5oz, 5.5/6oz, 8/10oz, 10/12oz, and 12/14 oz. The average side measures 24-27 square feet, while the average back measures 18-20 square feet. Lighter weights suit luxury goods such as wallets, bags, and shoes, while heavier weights serve traditional applications including equestrian gear and work boots.

The leather is available in three standard grades: Standard, Utility, and Special, with backs offered at an additional cost per square foot. Wickett & Craig produces English Bridle leather in an extensive color range, including Tan, Medium Brown, Dark Brown, Chestnut, Burgundy, Black, and Olive, along with Walnut, Cobalt, Buck Brown, Natural, Mustard, Chili Pepper, Navy, and Zucchini. For detailed information about specific colors, their characteristics, and applications, see the individual color articles. Custom splitting and refinishing services are available at additional cost for customers requiring specific thicknesses or surface treatments.

In recent years, Wickett & Craig has expanded into the heritage footwear market, supplying several prominent American boot manufacturers. The leather's characteristics make it particularly suitable for work boots and heritage boot styles where durability, aging behavior, and authentic materials matter to customers. Boot makers value the 6.5 oz weight for its balance of protection and flexibility, noting that the leather "looks and feels different than most boot leather" due to its traditional tanning and hot stuffing process. The material's ability to develop character through wear aligns with heritage footwear enthusiasts' appreciation for products that improve with age.

Beyond footwear, English Bridle leather remains popular for high-end leather goods and accessories. The material's smooth surface and ability to accept tooling and stamping make it suitable for belts, bags, wallets, and other leather accessories where craftsmanship and longevity are priorities. The leather burnishes to a remarkable finish and exhibits the "pull-up" effect characteristic of quality bridle leather, where oils migrate to flexed areas, creating depth and variation in color. Leather workers appreciate the material's response to traditional techniques while customers value its balance of formal appearance and practical durability.