C.F. Stead Waxy Commander Suede

The leather uses a proprietary tannage that shrinks the fiber structure by up to 25 percent, creating a tight, dense grain that resists stretching and provides superior durability. This unique manufacturing process, combined with heavy waxing both on the surface and throughout the tannage, yields a leather that is fully waterproof and Gore-Tex compatible while developing a distinctive patina with wear.

Waxy Commander undergoes C.F. Stead's proprietary tannage designed to dramatically alter the leather's fiber structure. The process shrinks the hide by up to 25 percent, tightening the fiber structure to create a more dense and impermeable material. This shrinkage strengthens the leather and prevents the "opening" or stretching that can occur in standard suedes, particularly over high-stress areas like the toe box.

Following the fiber-shrinking tannage, the leather is impregnated with a proprietary blend of natural waxes. Unlike traditional waxed suedes that receive wax only on the surface, Waxy Commander is waxed both on the surface and within the tannage itself. This double-barrier waxing provides exceptional protection from water and the elements. The leather also undergoes a traditional rich dyeing process to achieve its characteristic colors.

Waxy Commander is produced in suede butts with an average skin size of 12 to 14 square feet. The leather has a thickness range of 1.2 to 2.2 mm, with a typical weight of 4 to 5 oz (1.6 to 2.0 mm). The tight fiber structure created during tannage prevents the leather from stretching or opening, maintaining its appearance and shape during wear.

The heavy waxing treatment makes the leather fully waterproof and compatible with Gore-Tex membranes, allowing it to be used in technical footwear applications. Available colors include Mole, Snuff, and Wheatbuck, though wax content and coloration may vary slightly between production runs.

The defining characteristic of Waxy Commander is its combination of ruggedness and water resistance. The tight, shrunken fiber structure creates a leather described as a "rugged fashion leather" that maintains its appearance through heavy use. The dense grain prevents stretching and opening, ensuring footwear maintains its shape over time.

The double waxing treatment provides comprehensive protection from moisture. Unlike surface-treated leathers where wax can wear off, Waxy Commander's integrated wax treatment throughout the tannage creates lasting water resistance. This makes it particularly suitable for boots and shoes intended for outdoor or all-weather use.

The leather develops a rich color and texture over time as the wax migrates and the surface ages. This natural patina development is considered a desirable characteristic by heritage footwear enthusiasts, as it creates a unique appearance that reflects the boot's history of wear.

Waxy Commander requires minimal maintenance compared to other leather types. The integrated wax treatment provides long-lasting water resistance without frequent reapplication. When the leather begins to show wear or loses some of its water-repelling properties, it can be re-waxed at home using boot wax or waterproofing spray and a heat source such as a blow dryer or heat gun.

Any boot wax or general waterproofing spray is suitable for maintenance. Some bootmakers offer professional re-waxing services for customers who prefer not to perform the treatment themselves. The wax content and resulting coloration may vary slightly after home re-waxing, which is considered normal for this leather type.