Horween Dune Chromexcel

The color showcases the heritage characteristics of Chromexcel's combination tanning process while offering Grant Stone's customers a distinctive finish unavailable from other manufacturers. As a variant of natural Chromexcel, Dune maintains the pull-up effect and aging properties that define the Horween tanning tradition established in 1905, while providing Grant Stone's signature aesthetic approach to heritage footwear materials.

Dune Chromexcel undergoes Horween's traditional 89-step process requiring 28 working days across all five floors of their Chicago facility. The leather begins with chrome tanning in large wooden drums, followed by vegetable retanning using proprietary bark extracts that Horween has produced on-site since 1905. The hot stuffing process impregnates the leather with natural oils and greases, including food-grade beef tallow and cosmetic-grade beeswax, creating the foundation for the distinctive pull-up effect.

The aniline finishing process involves multiple hand-rubbed coats of non-pigmented dye that penetrate the grain layer while preserving the leather's natural texture. Grant Stone's specific Dune coloration is achieved through their application of natural and brown shoe creams over this aniline base, creating the transparent finish that allows the leather's natural characteristics to show through while achieving the desired light oatmeal appearance.

Grant Stone developed Dune as their interpretation of natural Chromexcel, working with Horween to create a color exclusive to their product line. Founded in 2016 by Wyatt and Randy Gilmore, Grant Stone draws on generations of family experience in Goodyear welt shoe manufacturing to develop distinctive leather treatments and finishes.

The company describes Dune as "one of our favorite colors" and positions it as their branded approach to natural Chromexcel leather. This exclusive arrangement allows Grant Stone to offer customers a distinctive color treatment while maintaining the technical properties that define Horween's Chromexcel leather line.

The aniline finish allows Dune Chromexcel to develop patina naturally through wear and exposure, transitioning from its original light oatmeal color toward deeper brown tones. The leather's aging characteristics reflect the combination tanning process that provides both the suppleness of chrome tanning and the patina-developing properties of vegetable retanning.

Regular wear causes the leather to lighten temporarily in stressed areas due to the pull-up effect, where oils and waxes shift within the leather fibers. Over time, the leather develops a caramel-colored patina that becomes more pronounced with continued use, creating the aged appearance valued by heritage footwear enthusiasts.

Grant Stone offers Dune Chromexcel across multiple footwear styles, including their Diesel Boot, Plain Toe shoe, Longwing brogue, and Traveler Penny loafer. The Longwing in Dune Chromexcel can be buffed for enhanced shine or allowed to age naturally to develop its characteristic patina. The color is also available in Grant Stone's leather belt line, extending the aesthetic across their accessory offerings.

All Grant Stone footwear utilizing Dune Chromexcel features Goodyear welt construction, a manufacturing method that attaches the upper leather to a welt strip, which is then stitched to the outsole. This construction, developed in the 1860s and improved by Daniel Mills and Charles Goodyear Jr., creates water-resistant footwear that can be resoled multiple times, representing the heritage construction methods that complement the traditional leather tanning process.

Dune Chromexcel maintains the standard properties of Horween's Chromexcel leather line while offering Grant Stone's distinctive coloration. The leather features the full aniline finish that characterizes premium Chromexcel, with natural grain patterns visible through the transparent color treatment. The hot stuffing process ensures the leather contains the oils and waxes necessary for the pull-up effect and natural aging.

As a combination-tanned leather, Dune Chromexcel provides the durability characteristics of chrome tanning combined with the aging properties of vegetable retanning. The leather requires minimal maintenance due to its oil and wax content, developing character through regular wear rather than requiring extensive care routines.