S.B. Foot Abilene

The leather is characterized by its water-repellent and breathable properties while requiring minimal maintenance. Unlike most tanneries that split and thin hides to create a rough surface, S.B. Foot flips the hide to maintain heavy grain leather with proprietary tanning processes.

Abilene exhibits several functional properties that distinguish it from other leather types. The roughout construction provides natural water resistance, allowing moisture to bead on the surface rather than penetrating the leather fibers. The material maintains breathability despite its water-repellent qualities, enabling air circulation to prevent moisture buildup inside footwear.

The leather requires minimal maintenance compared to smooth-finished leathers. The rough exterior surface naturally conceals minor scuffs and marks that would be visible on polished leather finishes. The textured surface develops a distinctive patina through wear, with high-contact areas becoming burnished over time.

S.B. Foot Tanning Company produces Abilene using specialized tanning techniques developed over 150 years of operation. The process begins with "Wet Blues" hides, which acquire a blue tone from a high-exhaustion tanning process designed to maximize chemical penetration into the leather fibers.

The tanning process involves re-wetting the hides, shaving them to uniform thickness, and soaking them in massive wood drums measuring up to 40 feet in diameter. During this soaking phase, the hides are treated with tree oils, tanning agents, and dyes that penetrate deeply to ensure color consistency throughout the leather's thickness. The complete tanning process requires two to five weeks with over 50 people involved in production.

S.B. Foot's approach to creating roughout leather differs from standard industry practice. While most tanneries split and thin hides to expose the rough underside, S.B. Foot reverses the hide while maintaining its full thickness. This method preserves the leather's structural integrity and grain characteristics while presenting the roughout texture on the exterior.

Abilene leather maintenance focuses on surface cleaning and occasional conditioning rather than regular polishing. For routine cleaning, the Eraser Bar from Red Wing's Roughout/Nubuck Cleaner Kit removes surface dirt and stains. Persistent marks can be addressed by wetting the Eraser Bar before cleaning. After cleaning, the Bristle Brush restores the leather's raised nap texture.

Most roughout leathers, including Abilene, do not require regular conditioning. When conditioning becomes necessary due to excessive dryness, Mink Oil should be applied sparingly as it darkens the leather permanently. For protection without color alteration, Leather Protector spray provides a shield against dirt and moisture when applied from six to eight inches away in sweeping motions.

Red Wing Heritage incorporates Abilene leather extensively in its footwear line. The Model 8833 Classic Moc 6-inch boot represents the most common application of Hawthorne Abilene, featuring the leather throughout the boot's upper construction. The Model 8079 Shop Moc Oxford also utilizes Abilene leather in its design.

S.B. Foot Tanning Company supplies leather exclusively for Red Wing Heritage footwear, with every pair in the Heritage line crafted from S.B. Foot leathers. The tannery grades its leathers, with A-graded materials featuring minimal imperfections and excellent grain character designated for the Red Wing Heritage line. The tannery produces over 3,000 finished leather sides daily at its Red Wing facility.