Incas Kangaroo is a leather type produced by Conceria Incas, an Italian tannery specializing in fine leather production. Research conducted by Australia's Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organisation confirmed that kangaroo leather exhibits up to 59 percent greater tensile strength than cowhide at similar thicknesses, leading to its description as "the strongest leather for its weight in the world." The material features a highly uniform orientation of fiber bundles parallel to the skin surface and even distribution of elastin throughout its thickness, structural characteristics that distinguish it from other leather types. At Conceria Incas, kangaroo leather represents 10 percent of the company's turnover despite being a specialized product within their portfolio of fine leathers.
The tannery processes kangaroo hides that arrive pickled in barrels, applying a mixture of chrome and vegetable tanning methods to achieve the final product. Premium brands including Hugo Boss have used Incas kangaroo leather for casual footwear applications. However, the broader kangaroo leather industry experienced market changes in 2024 when Adidas stopped purchasing the material, following similar decisions by Puma, Diadora, Sokito, Nike, and New Balance.
Scientific studies by the Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organisation examined the structural properties of kangaroo leather that contribute to its strength characteristics. The research identified highly uniform orientation of fiber bundles parallel to the skin surface as a defining feature. Unlike many other leather types, kangaroo hide does not contain sweat glands or erector pili muscles, and elastin is evenly distributed throughout the skin thickness rather than concentrated in specific layers.
When subjected to splitting tests, kangaroo leather demonstrated high retention of tensile strength. A hide split to 20 percent of its original thickness maintained 30 to 60 percent of the tensile strength of the unsplit hide. This strength retention, combined with the material's relative thinness compared to other leather types, supports its characterization as having the highest strength-to-weight ratio among commercially available leathers.
The leather features a soft feel and fine grain finish in the finished product. These tactile qualities, combined with the structural strength properties, make the material suitable for applications requiring both durability and refined appearance.
Conceria Incas receives kangaroo hides pickled in barrels and processes them alongside other specialized leathers including baby calf (which represents 85 percent of throughput), deerskin from New Zealand, baby buffalo, and goat skins. The facility operates 40 drums with nearly 200 employees and produces 1,400,000 feet of finished leather monthly across all product lines.
The tannery applies a mixture of chrome and vegetable tanning processes to most of its leathers, including kangaroo. This mixed tanning approach differs from pure chrome tanning or pure vegetable tanning methods. The facility features automated production systems, with 36 drums operated by four touch panels using Hüni's Microtan LT platform.
Conceria Incas sources kangaroo as semi-finished crust from international suppliers rather than processing raw hides from the beginning stages. This approach allows the tannery to focus on the finishing processes that define the final characteristics of Incas Kangaroo leather.
Conceria Incas maintains Gold rating certification from the Leather Working Group (URN: CON039), with continuous certification since November 14, 2016. The current certification expires November 25, 2026. The facility operates under multiple quality and environmental management systems including ISO 9001 certification for quality management since 2000 and ISO 14001 certification for environmental management since 2006.
In 2007, Conceria Incas became the first tannery in Europe to obtain EMAS registration. The company also achieved distinction as the first Italian tannery to obtain an ICEC sustainability certificate and the first tannery to receive "100% Made in Italy" certification in 2008. These certifications apply to all leather production at the facility, including kangaroo leather processing.
Hugo Boss uses Incas kangaroo leather for casual footwear production, representing an application of the material in premium fashion footwear. The tannery supplies the footwear, apparel, clothing, and leather goods industries through three brand divisions: Incas, Italtan, and Il Veliero. Approximately 30 percent of production reaches export markets including China, the United States, Germany, Portugal, Spain, and France.
The material's combination of high tensile strength, light weight, and fine grain finish makes it suitable for applications requiring durability without bulk. R.M.Williams, an Australian bootmaker, sources kangaroo leather from suppliers following "the national code of practice for the humane treatment of kangaroos," with hides obtained from open-range environments.
The kangaroo leather industry underwent market contraction beginning in the mid-2020s as footwear manufacturers discontinued use of the material. Adidas, which had historically used kangaroo skin to manufacture high-end soccer cleats including the Copa Mundial model, stopped purchasing kangaroo leather in 2024 and announced plans to end production of kangaroo leather products within 2025.
This decision followed similar moves by other athletic footwear brands. Puma, Diadora, Sokito, Nike, and New Balance had previously ended kangaroo leather use in their product lines. The material had been particularly associated with premium soccer cleats, where its high strength-to-weight ratio provided performance advantages for competitive athletics.
These market changes occurred independently of the production capabilities or material qualities of kangaroo leather itself, instead reflecting shifting corporate policies among footwear manufacturers.
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