White's Boots

The company has operated through five generations, with Otto White developing the trademarked Arch-Ease system in 1926 and remaining active in production until 1972. White's produces approximately 40,000 pairs of boots annually from its 42,000-square-foot facility, maintaining traditional bootmaking techniques while serving both professional work environments and the heritage footwear market.

White's Boots originated in 1853 when Edward White established a one-man shoe shop in Connecticut before the American Civil War. The business initially served local customers before Edward's son John recognized opportunities in the expanding American West.

In 1880, John White moved the operation to the Shenandoah Valley in Virginia, introducing loggers and miners to early versions of White's work boots. The company relocated again in 1900 to the Pacific Northwest, establishing its permanent base in Spokane, Washington in 1915. John's son Otto expanded the family business into the White Shoe Company in 1910, focusing on innovation and craftsmanship.

Otto White proved to be a key innovator, developing and trademarking the Arch-Ease technology in 1926. This arch support system became central to the company's identity and provided the foundation for prolific growth during the Great Depression. Otto remained actively involved in factory operations until his death in 1972, representing nearly a century of direct family involvement in production.

In July 2014, White's Boots was acquired by LaCrosse Footwear of Portland, Oregon, which also owns Danner Boots. The acquisition was motivated by White's made-in-America heritage and established reputation in the specialty footwear market.

White's operates from a 42,000-square-foot manufacturing facility in Spokane, Washington, which includes an 8,000-square-foot retail space located at 4002 E. Ferry in East Spokane. The facility produces approximately 40,000 pairs of boots annually, processing 400,000 square feet of leather in the manufacturing process.

The company employs approximately 90 workers and generates annual revenue of just under $12 million. White's sources American leather and materials for production, though the company has begun exploring international partnerships for specific product lines to manage production costs. Manufacturing in the United States costs approximately twice as much as European production due to higher labor costs and material sourcing challenges.

Production focuses primarily on work boots for wildland firefighters, loggers, and linemen, while expanding into lifestyle and heritage boot markets. The company maintains its commitment to handcrafted construction methods that date back to the mid-1800s, with each boot representing a multi-stage process performed by skilled craftspeople.

White's Boots employs several construction methods, with hand-welted stitchdown construction representing their premium offering. The hand-sewn stitchdown process involves more than 25 unique stages, each performed by hand, including hand-lasting, hand-welting, and hand-bottoming by master bootmakers.

During hand-welting, craftspeople use an awl and thread to stitch the vamp directly into the insole at three stitches per inch. This method eliminates the need for canvas welt strips used in Goodyear welting or adhesives used in standard stitchdown construction. The resulting construction creates a highly durable and rebuildable boot.

Additional construction methods include regular stitchdown, where the liner is adhered to the insole and the vamp is turned outward for machine stitching to the midsole and sole. The company also offers Goodyear welt construction, enhanced with hand-bottoming for improved comfort, and nail bottom construction traditionally used for calked logging boots and lineman boots.

The all-leather construction includes leather insoles, midsoles, and shanks that generate White's signature high arch support. This foundation molds to the wearer's foot while maintaining durability, creating what the company calls the Arch-Ease system that cradles the foot in its natural position.

White's manufactures a range of work boots and heritage footwear, with their flagship model being the Smokejumper, considered the original wildland fire boot developed for extreme firefighting conditions. The Semi-Dress represents their classic heritage offering with the signature sweeping logger heel.

Additional models in the current lineup include the Packer, Logger, Perry, Oxford, and modern variations like the Cruiser line, most originally developed during the company's productive design period in the late 1920s and 1930s. The company offers extensive customization options across all models, with sizing from 5 to 15, widths from AA to FF, and various upper heights. For detailed specifications and history of specific models, see the individual model pages.

White's Boots typically require sizing down from standard shoe measurements, with most customers wearing a half size down from their natural shoe size. The boots generally run one to one and a half sizes down from Brannock device measurements or sneaker sizes, and approximately half a size down from common US boot brands like Red Wing or Alden.

The company offers multiple last options to accommodate different foot shapes and uses. The 55 last provides Arch-Ease arch support with a moderate profile and roomier toe box. The 4811 last, used on Smokejumper styles, offers substantial toe room and good arch support ideal for work applications. The Semi-Dress last creates a more refined appearance with generous but controlled dimensions.

Additional last options include the C461, an archived logging boot design with sprung, upturned toe shape and moderate Arch-Ease support, and the Northwest, a low-heeled alternative to the 55 last with subtle leather shank and arch structure.

The Arch-Ease system requires a substantial break-in period, with owners commonly experiencing what they call "White's Bite" - initial discomfort from the high arch support. Customers typically experience arch soreness for several months before the leather softens and the foot adapts. After full break-in, the arch support provides distinctive comfort and foot positioning.

White's offers comprehensive fitting services, including custom tracings for customers who have difficulty with standard sizing. The company can accommodate different sizing for each foot when necessary, ensuring optimal fit for professional and personal use.